The Travellers Journals
Entering inside the second pyramid (1)
December 1817. Having embarked all that was found this season, I left Thebes with another accumulation of antiquities, of which an account will be found at the end of this
6099 words, written January 3 2006,
in the afternoon
Between Alexandria and Cairo
In the afternoon of the 19th [April, 1826], attended by the Janissary Selim, we mounted our donkeys and rode to the Canal of Mahmoudieh, where our Maash was waiting for
2917 words, written December 27 2005,
in the early morning
My Christmas with the Copts
It was on Christmas Day last year that a telegram came to Cairo for a nurse to go as soon as possible, to take charge of a case of
1232 words, written December 19 2005,
in the late morning
Passages of Eastern Travel
by an American Our engagements in Cairo made it impossible for us to remain in Alexandria as long as we could have desired. To the traveler who wishes to see
8047 words, written November 17 2005,
in the late afternoon
A Visit to the Convent of Sittna (Our Lady), Damiane (2)
Read the first part of this story Connected with our labors in the book-shop, I must give some account of our friend Makar’s doings. Poor man! it seemed he had
8753 words, written November 15 2005,
in the early morning
Cairo the Grand
In the night we dropped down to Bulac, and, when we looked out in the morning, we found ourselves moored close in front of the palace of Ismael Pasha (he
7432 words, written November 7 2005,
in the afternoon
My Visit to the Pharaoh City
You need a lot of credulity when you go to Egypt, and a superb contempt for anything less than three thousand years old. If you don’t have these, you
3567 words, written November 4 2005,
in the early afternoon
A Visit to the Convent of Sittna (Our Lady), Damiane
Awid, our bookseller at Cairo, having left a few days previous in our new boat the Morning Star, on her first colporteuring trip, I left Cairo on Tuesday, May 5,
8543 words, written November 3 2005,
in the early afternoon
Approach to Cairo
The boats of the canal are confined exclusively to its waters, and we here found it necessary to look out for other conveyances, a necessity to which our last night’s
4832 words, written October 24 2005,
in the early morning
Franks at Alexandria
On the morning of the 14th of April [1826], for the first time, I saw the sun rise over a garden of date-trees, in which Mr. Salt’s house was
2381 words, written October 17 2005,
in the morning
With Mr. Bankes in his voyage upon the Nile into Nubia (4)
Read the first part of this story Read the second part of this story Read the third part of this story We passed by Tyre, less desolate than I was
3982 words, written September 9 2005,
in the late morning
Of the Country of Egypt
of the bird phoenix of Arabia; of the city of Cairo; of the cunning to know balm and to prove it; and of the garners of Joseph Mandeville, Jehan De
3003 words, written July 12 2005,
in the morning
The Citadel and the Mamelukes
It was late in the afternoon when we slowly climbed the Mokattam to the citadel; we were weary, and so were the horses. Cairo was done great justice pictorially when
1837 words, written July 11 2005,
in the early morning
With Mr. Bankes in his voyage upon the Nile into Nubia (3)
Read the first part of this story Read the second part of this story Some hope was entertained that the Hanoverians might have abandoned their project, since nothing had been
5529 words, written July 4 2005,
in the early afternoon
Dendera
On the 22d [March, 1823] we brought-to near Dendera. This temple is in a most perfect state; has a magnificent, portico, a noble cornice, and twenty-four large Isis-headed columns,
2356 words, written June 21 2005,
in the early morning
The Passing of Cairo
Ragged, threatening clouds, like those that bring the showers of our early spring, hurry across a pale evening sky, whose mere aspect makes you cold. A wintry wind, raw and
2483 words, written May 16 2005,
in the evening
The Tomb of Seti I
On the 16th October (1817) I recommence my excavations in the valley of Beban el Malook, and pointed out the fortunate spot, which has paid me for all the trouble
5659 words, written May 8 2005,
in the late afternoon
North Wind Still Blowing
Descending the Nile, February 26th., 1867 It has now been twenty-one days since we left Assouan; ten since we left Thebes. We are only 236 miles from the latter
4286 words, written May 6 2005,
in the evening
Upper Egypt: Memphis, Thebes, Syene
Asyoot, February 14, 1880. – This is the capital of Upper Egypt, and a place of some 25,000 inhabitants. It is full of picturesque interiors and groups, especially in the
4333 words, written April 25 2005,
in the wee hours
Shubra
One afternoon I paid a visit to the beautiful garden and country- house of the Viceroy of Egypt. A broad handsome street leads between alleys of sycamores, and the
659 words, written April 24 2005,
in the evening
White Bird in Heaven
I am sitting on the window-sill in my room eating sugar-cane. It is so juicy and fresh one could go on nibbling at it all day. The Soudanese servant,
1423 words, written April 17 2005,
in the late afternoon
Visit to the Palace of Schoubra
The use of carriages is not known in Egypt; all journeys are performed either by water or caravans; in the latter case camels are chiefly used; however, the horses of
634 words, written April 11 2005,
in the afternoon
Some interesting facts in connexion with Pyramids
We are stretched on the sand in a tomb at Ghizeh, gazing on the solemn and dreamy figures every where painted on its walls. They carry our thoughts back
3944 words, written April 8 2005,
in the early afternoon
Adventures during a Visit to Lake Mœris
Had the Moggrebyns stormed the Okella that night, they would have acquired considerable booty, it being filled with merchants, chiefly inhabitants of the province, returning with the goods they had
8350 words, written April 3 2005,
in the evening
Thebes and Karnak
Coming on deck the third morning after leaving Denderah, we found the dahabeeyah decorated with palm-branches, our sailors in their holiday turbans, and Reïs Hassan en grands tenue; that is
7847 words, written March 27 2005,
in the morning
The Finding of the Pharaohs
The finding of the mummies of the Pharaohs in 1881 was by far the most important of late discoveries. An account of it at the time was published in every
859 words, written March 22 2005,
in the early evening
The Sun
The sun is the secret of the East. There seems to be no light elsewhere. Italy simply preludes the Orient. Sorrento is near the secret. Sicily is like its
1461 words, written March 20 2005,
in the morning
The River
Our attention during our voyage has been chiefly directed to the temples and other remains of ancient Egypt. The wonderful river on which we have been journeying has also interested
2543 words, written March 18 2005,
in the early morning
Few hints for Ladies
Directions have been given in abundance by preceding travellers to those who may follow them up the Nile and across the Desert, about preparations for the expedition. Without repeating
1745 words, written March 16 2005,
in the evening
Inside the Great Pyramid (2)
Read the first part of this story I am happy to have it in my power to vindicate the character of a British officer in the campaign of 1801, who
5715 words, written March 13 2005,
midday
Preparations for a Voyage
We are giving our minds to a name for our dahabeëh. The owners have desired us to christen it, and the task is getting heavy. Whatever we are doing; guiding
2270 words, written March 13 2005,
in the early morning
An Invitation for Dinner
Next day we arrived at Cairo, and I found at Shepheard’s an invitation for dinner from De Cosson Bey, who controls and manages all the great public utilities of
1272 words, written March 5 2005,
in the late afternoon
Inside the Great Pyramid
Cairo, March 10, 1818. Yesterday, Mr. Salt, Belzoni, and myself, started early. In our way to the place where we were to cross the Nile, we passed the saltpetre
6129 words, written March 3 2005,
in the late afternoon
Memphis and surroundings
The Arabs who were conducting us towards the pyramids of Saccara, stopped our asses at a small hut by the way-side, and told us that here was a Frank
2920 words, written February 26 2005,
in the morning
The Suez Canal
The Separation of the African Continent from that of Asia, and the formation of a direct waterway between the Atlantic and the Indian Oceans by cutting the Isthmus of Suez,
3205 words, written February 19 2005,
in the late afternoon
A Night Scene in Luxor
Two days in the tombs of the Kings and the temples of the Remesides and the Osirei exhausted us more thoroughly than a week of hard labor. In addition to
1531 words, written February 17 2005,
in the early morning
Operations of Captain Caviglia at the Sphinx
The features of the Sphinx, whatever their beauty or merit may formerly have been, are now so timeworn and mutilated by violence that they can scarcely be said to represent
2827 words, written February 14 2005,
in the late evening
Address to the Mummy at Belzoni’s Exhibition
In all oriental nations, peculiar honors have always been paid to the remains of the dead. But Egypt surpasses the world in monumental works. The tombs of Thebes, are the
1277 words, written February 14 2005,
in the late afternoon
Midnight in the Heart of the Great Pyramid
Our last night in Cairo we spent in riding out to Ghizeh by moonlight, and exploring the interior of the Great Pyramid. We had already been there by day, and
5588 words, written February 11 2005,
in the afternoon
Voyage to Cairo on the Nile
I continued the journey of my pilgrimage on Thursday the 30th of October 1806, after having passed five months and a half at Alexandria. I embarked in a djerme, accompanied
3521 words, written February 5 2005,
in the evening
The removal of the Young Memnon
Perhaps you want to read The Assignment as introduction to this story “On the 22d [July, 1816], we saw for the first time the ruins of great Thebes, and landed
5086 words, written February 2 2005,
in the evening
The Convent of Mount Sinai
The convent of Mount Sinai is situated in a valley so narrow, that one part of the building stands on the side of the western mountain, while a space
5368 words, written February 1 2005,
in the early morning
Visit to an English Antiquary
An English gentleman, long resident in Cairo, had done me the honour to call upon me on the day after my arrival, and had invited me to come to his
755 words, written January 30 2005,
in the evening
Life in a Convent
We had been musing so long on the past that we had almost forgotten the present, when suddenly a stroke of the Convent bell recalled us to our situation. Our
5305 words, written January 30 2005,
in the evening
The Nile Excursion
On the Nile, Jan. 14th., 1867 Cairo, as one of the most thoroughly oriental cities in the world, offers numberless objects of study and entertainment, even to the unpoetical
3683 words, written January 24 2005,
in the evening
The Hareem
I saw two hareems in the East; and it would be wrong to pass them over in an account of my travels; though the subject is as little agreeable as
6281 words, written January 21 2005,
in the late morning
Thebes, its Temples and Great Ruins
It was nearly noon, when, with a gentle breeze, we dropped into the harbor of Thebes. The sun was beating upon it with meridian splendor; the inhabitants were seeking
3771 words, written January 15 2005,
in the evening
A Night in the Desert and a Magnificent Sunrise
We arrived, at rather an early hour, at our halting place for the night; and as we considered it to be desirable to get into Suez as speedily as
707 words, written January 5 2005,
in the late morning
Cairo and the English in Egypt
We arrived in Cairo, the “Grand,” the “Beautiful,” the” Blessed,” as it is often called, in the evening, and awoke next morning to look out on green trees and crowded
1267 words, written January 3 2005,
in the early afternoon
Christmas Eve
That night was the birth-night. In what countries of the round world were not Christians singing carols as the sun going westward left the holy twilight of Christmas eve
487 words, written December 24 2004,
in the late afternoon
Hotel Life at Shepherd's
O Cairo! Cairo! Masr-el-Káherah, The Victorious! City of the Caliphs, of Saláh-e’-deen, of the Memlooks! Town of mediaeval romance projected into a prosaic age! More Oriental than Damascus, or
874 words, written December 24 2004,
in the early morning
Joining the Expedition
So soon as Mr. Bankes had sailed, I took my departure for Aleppo with his horses, which he had left in my charge, with a commission there to dispose
5015 words, written December 22 2004,
in the early afternoon
The importance of the interpreter
In the Ottoman dominions there is scarcely any hereditary influence except that which belongs to the family of the Sultan, and wealth, too, is a highly volatile blessing, not
1688 words, written December 21 2004,
in the morning
With Mr. Bankes in his voyage upon the Nile into Nubia (2)
Read the first part of this story Pursuing our voyage still downwards, we passed close to the nine noble columns of the portico at Gau1, which the Nile was visibly
2202 words, written December 18 2004,
in the morning
Interview with M. Mariette
On the way, Achmet had told us of a Frenchman who had been all summer digging in the sand, near Sakkara. After we bad crawled into the subterranean depot of
1402 words, written December 14 2004,
in the late evening
Troubles at Abou-Simbel (3)
Prologue Read the first part of this story Read the second part of this story At moonlight on Friday morning, August 1st, the anniversary of the battle of the Nile,
4672 words, written December 13 2004,
in the evening
With Mr. Bankes in his voyage upon the Nile into Nubia
When, upon the pacification of the city [Cairo], the gate of the Frank quarter was again thrown open, and free ingress and egress permitted, I resumed my habit of frequenting
4239 words, written December 12 2004,
in the afternoon
The Massacre of the Mamelukes
Mamelukes (2 syl.) or Mamalukes (Arabic, mamluc, a slave). A name given in Egypt to the slaves of the beys brought from the Caucasus, and formed into a standing
2949 words, written December 9 2004,
midday
Ancient inscriptions at Philae
This island [of Philae] makes one of the most beautiful pictures I ever saw. Perhaps the general monotony of the scenery of the Nile gives it a peculiar beauty; but
930 words, written December 7 2004,
in the evening
Encounter with Mr. Salt
Cairo, April 8, 1818. I reached this far-famed city so late last night, that I have as yet had no opportunity of seeing it, it having been several hours
4255 words, written December 7 2004,
midday
Recipe for the bite of a scorpion
On opening my basket of clothes this morning, I found in one of the fold of a shirt a young scorpion, about half an inch long, of a light colour,
276 words, written December 7 2004,
in the early morning
Visit to the Pyramids
None of the numerous travellers who visit in our days the ancient kingdom of the Pharaohs, will fail to admire the gigantic and durable monuments of these shepherd kings. The
1914 words, written December 6 2004,
in the evening
The Temple of Derr
The neighbourhood of Derr is interesting on account of a temple situated on the declivity of a rocky hill, just behind the village. Its structure denotes remote antiquity. The gods
1024 words, written November 29 2004,
in the early afternoon
Edfu
I could hear the voices of the others getting fainter and fainter as they passed into a further hail of the temple. I could hear too, the confused jabber
1650 words, written November 28 2004,
in the late afternoon
A Few Hints to Travellers in The East, especially The Desert
Food. – Take good store of captains, or other biscuits, for the Desert especially. Arab bread is bad, and that the traveller starts with soon gets hard. Compressed soup,
1033 words, written November 28 2004,
in the afternoon
Arrival at Abou-Simbel by Moonlight
We were now only thirty-four miles from Abou Simbel; but making slow progress, and impatiently counting every foot of the way. The heat at times was great; frequent and fitful
876 words, written November 27 2004,
late at night
Troubles at Abou-Simbel (2)
Prologue Read the first part of this story July 11. – On the first day, the fifty men that came worked very badly, and we found that the burthen of
7687 words, written November 27 2004,
in the morning
Dark Eyes
“There is something comfortable about all this to a man who has lived in fast America, and who has always had a lazy inclination to leave matters to take care
386 words, written November 22 2004,
in the early morning
Troubles at Abou-Simbel
Prologue June 27. [1817] – We this day saw two crocodiles; our men requested us to fire some muskets to frighten them away, but were not afraid of towing the
6958 words, written November 21 2004,
in the morning
Dahabeahs and Steamers
Nothing has probably been so fully described and praised to exhaustion as the famous “Dahabeah;” and the idyllic charms of life in one of these boats, floating up and down
1915 words, written November 18 2004,
in the early evening
The Pasha's Entourage
“I shall devote here a little portion of time to illustrate the character of that celebrated personage who now governs Egypt; as also that of Yousouf Boghos, his first minister.
1624 words, written November 1 2004,
in the evening
Crossing the Nile
“I afterwards crossed the Nile1 in a small barge, with an Arab for a steersman, and the only one then to be found on the river; a river once
333 words, written November 1 2004,
in the late afternoon
Character of several distinguished Men
Baroness Wolfradine Menu von Minutoli and his husband entered in Alexandria harbour on the 7th of September 1820. […] “While we were indulging in these reflections, a boat put out,
1684 words, written October 30 2004,
in the early evening
Excursion to the Pyramids of Gizeh
August 25th, 1842. “At four in the afternoon I quitted Cairo, crossed two arms of the Nile, and a couple of hours afterwards arrived safely at Gizeh. As the
2117 words, written October 28 2004,
in the early evening
The Right Equipment
“I had equipped myself at Esne for my journey: but soon found on my arrival at Daraou the necessity of making some alteration in my plans. I had brought
1375 words, written October 25 2004,
in the early morning
Departure from Assouan
“After an easy journey of four days from Esne, I reached Assouan, the most romantic spot in Egypt, but little deserving the lofty praises which some travellers have bestowed
426 words, written October 25 2004,
in the early morning
Cairo
August 22d. 1842 “The aspect of this great Egyptian metropolis is not nearly so imposing as I had fancied it to be; its situation is too flat, and from
3268 words, written October 17 2004,
in the late morning
The Hall of the Mummies
“There are two of us, and as we light our way by the aid of a lantern through these vast halls we might be taken for a night watch on
3706 words, written October 15 2004,
in the late morning
A Charming Luncheon
“We are making our way through the fields of Abydos in the dazzling splendour of the forenoon, having come, like so many pilgrims of old, from the banks of the
3439 words, written October 13 2004,
in the morning
Règlement à observer pendant le voyage
11 September 1828 This morning Mr. Champollion and professor Rosellini [ready to begin the Franco-Tuscan Expedition to Egypt] have established the present regulations to observe during the travel.
909 words, written October 7 2004,
in the late afternoon
A little poem for a friend
Poem wrote by Sir William Gell in the notebook of James Burton before he left for Egypt:
246 words, written September 28 2004,
in the early morning
The Assignment
Document received by Belzoni from Burckhardt and Salt as reported in Belzoni’s “Narrative of the Operations…”
695 words, written September 26 2004,
in the late afternoon
Departure for Abou-Simbel
On the 14th of August, 1816, the Hon. Charles Leonard Irby and James Mangles, Commanders in the Royal Navy, left England, with the intention of making a tour on
740 words, written September 26 2004,
in the morning
Report on the Memnonium
The following is an extract from some letters which John Lewis Burckhardt addressed to Mr. Hamilton, the Secretary of the Association for Promoting the Discovery of the Interior Part of
1881 words, written September 24 2004,
in the late afternoon
Mr. Drovetti's Collection
The following is an extract from a letter of John Lewis Burckhardt addressed to Mr. Hamilton, the Secretary of the Association for Promoting the Discovery of the Interior Part of
335 words, written September 24 2004,
in the afternoon
The Contract
Abd-el-Atti was a young, well-built, active Egyptian, with a face much like a North American Indian’s. His complexion was copper-colored, his eyes black and rather unsteady. After the Nile
1285 words, written September 24 2004,
in the early morning
Palm-Trees and Moonlight
“It was not yet evening, but there was no other village for some distance above, and we thought it best to pass the night here.
219 words, written September 24 2004,
in the early morning
The Crocodile Pits
“I paused a day at Es Siout and then went on to Maabdeh, on the east bank of the river, about five miles above Manfaloot. Here we found ourselves,
7054 words, written September 23 2004,
in the afternoon
Dragoman
“The word dragoman, derived from turgoman, and meaning simply an interpreter, has gotten to signify a sort of courier, valet, servant, adviser, and traveling companion, all combined, on whom
274 words, written September 23 2004,
in the late morning
Camel or Dromedary?
“I remember I had a long discourse about the difference between the camel and the dromedary. Buffon gives the camel two humps, and the dromedary one; and this, I believe
430 words, written September 22 2004,
in the early morning
No more
“It may be, however, that the reader will one day be hurried by a steam-engine over the route which I was now crossing at the slow pace of a camel;
167 words, written September 22 2004,
in the early morning
Entering in Alexandria
“Having seated himself cross-legged on the gangway of the steamer, pipes and coffee were served, and he steered us through the intricate channel into the harbour of Alexandria. The usual
358 words, written September 19 2004,
in the early morning
Names on the Colossus
“At some little distance in the plain are two colossi, placed side by side, both seated, and with faces turned towards the East. I could not consider them without
325 words, written August 12 2004,
in the early evening
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