Part One

Inside the Great Pyramid

Cairo, March 10, 1818.

Yesterday, Mr. Salt, Belzoni, and myself, started early. In our way to the place where we were to cross the Nile, we passed the saltpetre manufactory belonging to the pacha, and there saw one of the French soldiers of Buonaparte, who had become a mameluke of the name of Scum; many of the French deserters having assumed this character. I made inquiry whether there were more of them, and learnt that they were reduced to twenty-five, of whom several were in Nubia with the rest of the mamelukes. There were at one period, it appears, three English mamelukes, worthless drunkards, who, for the honour of their country, are fortunately dead. We proceeded by the aqueduct which supplies the city with water when the river is low, and the Kaliz or canal, understood to be that of Trajan, which conveys the Nile water, when at its height, through the city of Cairo. It is at this time quite dry, and much choked with rubbish, but is annually cleared out previous to the Nile reaching its greatest elevation. It was not until we reached the banks of the Nile to embark, above the island on which is the Nilometer, that I caught the first view of the pyramids with the sun shining on them, and my sensations were similar to those I experienced when advancing to view the caves of Ellora.

On landing on the opposite side at Giza, we mounted our donkeys, which were excellent, and approached the pyramids, passing between the green fields of corn. I know not the reason, but they are not the striking objects I should have supposed, nor have I been so much transported by them at any time as when I stood in the area of Keylas. They are, I am told, called by the Arabs Gebel Pharoun, or the Mountains of Pharaoh; and also, Ui Haram, or the Forbidden. Every thing in Egypt, the ruins of which are large and their era unknown, are stated by the Mahometans to have been built in the time of Pharoun, with whom they were acquainted from the history of the Old Testament, one of the pillars of their faith.

As we neared the pyramids, they gradually shewed the ranges of steps, losing the exact pyramidal shape, and their apex becoming flattened. The second pyramid looks, from afar, higher than the largest, its base being upon a more elevated level, though in reality it is twenty feet lower than that generally known as the great pyramid of Egypt. The third pyramid is evidently considerably smaller. The separation between the desert and the cultivated ground is a sharp line on a bank, one side of which is green, and the other sand.

The pyramids stand upon a calcareous rock, about 40 or 50 feet above the level of the cultivation, and the three greatest are placed with respect to each other, to use a military term, in echelon, the largest being most to the northward and eastward. It has often been remarked that the four faces exactly correspond with the cardinal points. The immediate vicinity of the pyramids appears to have been a favourite spot fbr interment, there being several minor pyramids of 40 or 50 feet in height at the foot of the eastern side of the great pyramid, and to the west some large piles of masonry, each containing several small rooms.

The sphinx, of which the head and breast only are above the sand, is directly south of the great pyramid, about eight or nine hundred yards; and to the south-east of this figure, in the calcareous rock, are some small caves. The sand from the Lybian desert is most painful and fatiguing to pedestrians, and yet we were obliged to quit our asses and walk to the sphinx. I was much disappointed with it, after the fine excavations I had seen in India; though at present it should be recollected above 40 feet are under the sand, the whole altitude 70 from its base to the top of the head.

I have been most fortunate in travelling through Egypt during a period of tranquillity and security which has, within the last two years, permitted inquisitive and persevering Europeans to elucidate many points, and even make fresh discoveries. All the great objects which were now before me, the sphinx, and the greater and second pyramid, have been successfully visited, much having been already added to our former knowledge of them. At a distance were Arabs employed on the third pyramid, by Belzoni; and certainly, if we may judge from his former success at Thebes and the second pyramid, it is to be hoped he will not labour in vain.

The bust of the sphinx has been often described, and I will therefore only repeat what I was told upon the spot, by those who witnessed the removal of the sand, which has for ages hid the lower part of this colossal figure. I shall, however, enter upon it with deference, as Mr. Salt, I have reason to believe, is about to present the world with a detailed account of the whole of these interesting wonders, and no one, from his talents and acquirements, is more capable of doing them justice; but his various publications, and zeal for inquiry, are too well known to require any further encomiums.

In the course of last year, an Italian gentleman of the name of Caviglia, a captain of a merchant vessel sailing under British colours, arrived at Cairo. At the same time that he was successful in his discoveries in the great pyramid, of which more hereafter, he and Mr. Salt undertook to remove the sand which enveloped the sphinx. This was only to be accomplished by carrying it away in baskets, which, to any others than these persevering gentlemen, would have been looked upon as an endless work. They at last, however, cleared it sufficiently away to disclose the base of the front, the left arm and paw, and the avenue or approach which led to the front of the figures. They discovered, in the avenue, which is cut out of the calcareous rock on which the pyramids stand, two flights of steps, with an intermediate terrace, descending towards the sphinx, on which were two small Grecian buildings, erected for two of the Roman emperors to witness the ceremonies of worship. Between the paws of the sphinx was a small temple or altar, which amongst many ornaments had a most beautiful stone tablet, covered with hieroglyphics, which is in the possession of Mr. Salt at his house in Cairo.

Imperfect as this account may seem, when Mr. Salt’s publication shall appear, I trust it will be recollected that I only visited this place once, when I wished to remain for weeks, nay months, to clear away every atom of sand or rubbish from so classical a spot, by the labour of hundreds of Arabs; but I had not come through Egypt purposely to visit the country, or make antiquarian researches. The back of the sphinx, which extends about one hundred feet to the westward, is just perceptible above the sand, and resembles the well trod path or limits of a sentry’s walk. The sphinx must thus stand in an area, like that which surrounds the second pyramid.

To this pyramid we next proceeded, with difficulty passing over the ground between it and the sphinx, where the sand has been blown into small undulating banks or ridges. The second pyramid was the great object of Mr. Salt’s present visit, as heretofore he had thought he was well acquainted with every part of the neighbourhood, having (I think he told me) remained at one time three weeks in tents, while the sphinx was uncovering.

As for myself, all was equally new and interesting, and I only desired to be spared as much from extra exertion as possible, as Belzoni had threatened me with extreme fatigue, it being at all times a good day’s work to enter all the passages and chambers, and mount the summit of the great pyramid. But with the addition of his great discoveries, it was now a still more severe undertaking.

We first proceeded to the remains of what is supposed to have been a portico, about 200 yards to the east of the second pyramid: this building has had three entrances, one to the east, one to the north, and, I think, another to the south; but at the moment this was so secondary an object, in comparison with the wonder of the world before me, that I did not pay so much attention to it as I have since wished I had done. It is absolutely a horizontally built Stone Henge. Some of the blocks of calcareous stone are of an immense size; and two which were particularly pointed out to me, one upon the other, on the east side, forming part of the north-east angle, Belzoni told me were 24 feet long, eight in breadth, and the same in thickness. From age, they are perfectly honeycombed, and positively united together, though their original separation is distinctly seen from the sharp edges being rounded by time. The walls of this portico are not above twice, or at the utmost thrice, the breadth of these stones in height.

What may be under ground I know not; but it appears to me that it has either never been completed, or the finish of the building must have been of much lighter and less lasting materials than what is left. Belzoni now took us to a spot where he had opened the ground between this portico and the pyramid, having dug down several feet, till he met with a pavement of large blocks of well-hewn, flat, calcareous stones: as it was much covered in, I cannot be a competent judge of all the attendant circumstances, but in one part there seemed to be a wall of no great height, formed of calcareous stones upon the pavement.

The whole ground in the neighbourhood of the pyramids is strewed with small pieces of granite, which are supposed to have been placed at the angles to prevent the effects of time; for the soft calcareous stone of which the main bodies of these stupendous buildings are constructed, or the plaster with which they were covered, would have early crumbled into dust at their most exposed parts. In passing the north-east angle of the second pyramid, Mr. Salt showed me two triangular stones of a dark colour, about six feet on each side, level with the face of the ground, certainly not calcareous, and I think not granite. Mr. Salt had often remarked them before. We left some Arabs to dig down to see if their sides were hewn, similar to that presented to the surface.

From this point I had a good view of the pyramid. It is placed in a vast area, cut about 40 feet deep out of the rock, thus leaving an open space between the face of the scarped rock and the pyramid of I should think 200 feet on the north, west, and south sides, so that the base of the pyramid is below the real level of the ground; and the architect, as will eventually be seen, has taken advantage of this, and though the hewn stones on the outside commence from its base, yet a mound of rock was undoubtedly left in the centre. I conceive that the stones dug out to form this area were made use of in building the pyramid, although it is evident that the greater part of the materials was brought from the other side of the Nile, from the mountain Mokuttum, by the two celebrated causeways which Herodotus states were works almost equal to the pyramids themselves. However long these vast masses may have been in constructing, yet had not these two communications between the pyramids and the qarries been opened, so that during the whole year, even at the time of the inundation, they could procure stones from them (being above the level of the rise of the Nile), it would have required a period of time one third longer. In this case, during one third of the year, the country would have been impassable, not when the river overflowed its banks, for then, by water carriage, the blocks might have been transported; but when it left the earth a black, heavy, unctuous mud. When I passed over it off the paths or roads, the ground was very unsafe and rotten, and it was with difficulty we could keep our asses on their legs. To the north of the pyramid, in the area, are several grave-like looking holes of a regular figure. These may have been the matrices of great stones used in the buildings. This pyramid has evidently been faced with a slate-coloured plaster, of which about 100 feet from the top remains, and round its base are heaps of rubbish and dust, which have in time fallen down its face. It was with great trouble that Arabs scrambled over this coating to place the lines for Belzoni’s measurements: I was anxious to have ascended the face of the pyramid to where the plaster commences, but my time would not permit it.

It was particularly interesting to hear, on the spot, the remarks of one gentleman who had deeply studied the subject, and of the other who had immortalized himself by discovering the entrance to the chambers, contained in the enormous mass before us. In the area under the opening, which is on the north side, at the foot of the rubbish are many large stones which had been removed by this enterprising Italian, and afforded us an idea of the vast difficulties he had surmounted. He had made, through the crumbling rubbish, a firm footing with large stones to reach the openings. He had previously informed us that when he first determined on attempting to open the pyramid, he had deemed it necessary to ask permission of the Kaiya Bey. This leave was granted. The rulers of Egypt themselves never entertain a feeling for such researches. They despise our curiosity, or conceive that we are digging from an interested motive of finding treasure. Belzoni was obliged to make use of a little ruse de guerre to prevent a knowledge of his work becoming generally spread, and attracting troublesome and inquisitive visitors. He began his operations on the 10th of February on the north side, employing many Arabs in cutting through the stones and rubbish which had accumulated for ages from the upper parts of the pyramid. He worked for many days unsuccessfully, but determining to persevere, and on the 17th fell in with the forced entrance (1).

There had always been Arabic written accounts of this pyramid having been opened by the Arabs with the hope of gain; and from them we learn that in the sarcophagus were found the bones of a man, and some small gold tablets, covered with hieroglyphics, which, from the same sordid motive as led to the investigation, were put into the crucible, and divided amongst the sacrilegious spoilers. They are stated to have been but of little intrinsic value; but what a loss was sustained to the lovers of antiquity by this barbarous and avaricious outrage! The hieroglyphics, both from the value of the metal on which they were wrought, and the history which they were doubtless intended to communicate, it may naturally be supposed, must have been executed in the highest perfection of the art, and in every point of view invaluable.

This entrance, discovered on the 17th, Belzoni was satisfied was a forced passage, and not the real one. On the following day he got in about five feet, when the stones and rubbish began to fall from above, and though constantly cleared away for some days, continued to descend in great quantities, till at last an upper forced entrance (2) was discovered, communicating from above with that which entered horizontally into the pyramid. He then perceived another entrance (3) which was evidently a continuation of the first passage (1). This passage was cleared from its numerous obstructions, and extended above 100 feet into the centre of the pyramid. About half way from the entrance another forced descending passage was discovered, 40 feet in length. Though the work in the horizontal passage was continued to the length I have stated, it ended abruptly. The workmen had been exposed to the danger of being crushed by the hanging stones over their heads, which had been loosened by their operations, and for myself I felt anxious to change my position every instant, as some stones, of several tons weight, appeared to threaten our destruction.

To those who value actions by the motive which occasioned them it will be satisfactory to learn, that the Arabs, who first attempted to open the pyramid for the “lucre of gain,” met with many more difficulties than their successor Belzoni encountered; and in search of the right passage, their obstacles must have been almost incredible, as the stones were in all probability broken piecemeal with mallets. The dangers were equally great after the removal of a stone, until the safety of the foremost workmen was proved, by another dependant on it for support not falling and crushing the “enfant perdu;” and all must have been in imminent peril.

We next proceeded to the real entrance, and I cannot understand by what indication Belzoni dug so directly down upon it, for it was no less than thirty feet to the eastward of the forced passage. I have tried without success to account for the clue which led him to the immediate spot, though in all probability it was similar to that which guided the Arabs, and thus the antiquary was the gainer by their former labours proving it a hopeless task to reach the centre of the pyramid by force. This sagacity is the more remarkable when it is considered that in his great discoveries at the tombs of the kings of Thebes he dug down immediately on the entrance, though it had in the course of time been covered by a cascade, or stream of water falling over the entrance, and yet his index was equally successful. After many days’ hard work, on the 28th of February, Belzoni discovered the corner of a block of granite in an inclined direction, towards the centre of the pyramid; and was convinced, from the inclination being the same as that of the first pyramid, and doubtless from granite having been used in the interior of it, that the object he desired was near being accomplished; and subsequent discovery of other large blocks on the 1st of March, although they materially retarded his approach, yet gave him almost certain hopes of succeeding.
On the 2d of March he opened the true entrance to the pyramid of Cephrenes. It had been generally believed that this pyramid contained no chambers, but this was contradicted by the account of the Arabs having opened it. The authority of Herodotus would indeed have led us to suppose that there were no interior chambers, had it not been contrary to common sense that such a mass of building should have been erected without an intention of con’taming something. But Herodotus obtained his intelligence on this point from the Egyptian priests, who, it would thus appear, knew very little about the matter; and it is evident from the late discovery that the pyramids themselves were, in the time of Herodotus, of so great an age, that the real circumstances of the second pyramid, if not of the others, were forgotten, and much shakes the confidence placed in their traditional information.

From having seen this pyramid within five weeks after it was opened, and being accompanied by the projector and accomplisher of this unique exploit (for the great pyramid has been open from time immemorial), I accompany what I saw with his account of the proceeding, and his remarks upon it. I have done this as I conceive it will enhance the interest of the narrative.

The four blocks of granite, forming the entrance to the passage, which is an opening four feet high, and three feet and a half wide, are well hewn stones; and there is a continuation of them slanting downwards, at the same inclination as that of the pyramid of Cheops’ namely, an angle of twenty-six degrees with the horizon. The length of this first passage is 104 feet five inches, lined the whole way with granite, and it can therefore boast of a superiority in this particular over the passage of the great pyramid, which is only of calcareous stone, though it has been supposed by some travellers that it is lined with white marble; but by the use of passengers, in placing both hands on each side in ascending and descending, it has altered its appearance, and at first deceived me.

After having satisfied our minds as to the inclination of the passage, in which we found Belzoni was correct, we took off every thing but our shirts, and the lower parts of our dress, leaving them in charge of our janissaries. We each received a piece of wax candle. The extreme hardness of the granite floor to the passage will render it a work of time to make steps, or rather resting-places for the feet, as in the calcareous flooring of the passage of the great pyramid, to prevent slipping down; as it was, I risked very nearly breaking my neck. A strong bar of wood, about five feet long, was placed resting across the outside granite blocks, with a rope from the centre of the length of the passage. This greatly facilitated our descent. Belzoni, proud of shewing us his discovery, went first as our guide, Mr. Salt went next, and I followed. This passage (5 and 4) on its discovery was full of large stones, which it required very considerable force to draw forth, as it was literally up-hill work, and the accumulation was greater below towards the portcullis (6), or door of granite, which is fitted into a niche above, so as to have fallen and entirely blocked up the passage. This moveable piece of granite Belzoni found supported by small stones within eight inches of the floor, and in consequence of the narrowness of the place, it took up the whole of that day and part of the next to raise it sufficiently to afford an entrance. It is one foot three inches thick, and together with the work of the niche, occupies six feet eleven inches where the granite work ends. To pass this (the stone not having been raised above a foot higher than it was originally found) it was necessary to creep upon the belly. Belzoni, having gone through, assured me, from the other side of the stone, that he had placed two pieces of granite to support it, and thus confident, I with some difficulty passed under it. We relighted the candles, which had been extinguished, and prepared for further progress. We were now able to stand up; and after walking along the passage (7), cut in the rock, twenty-two feet seven inches long, came to a perpendicular descent of fifteen feet. Before arriving at this, however, to the left, is a small forced passage (9), cut in the rock, and also above on the right is another forced passage (8), which runs upwards. It is. evident that this forced passage was made to ascertain if there was another in conformity to that of the pyramid of Cheops. The perpendicular descent was made easy by a number of stones being formed into a rude flight of steps. These were placed here by Belzoni.

We now turned down the passage running to the north (12), which is much blocked up with stones and rubbish; but Belzoni, as might naturally have been expected, proceeded, on the first discovery, along the passage (10) towards the centre of the pyramid. The inclination of the passage (12) is the same as that by which we at first descended. After proceeding forty-eight feet six inches, we came to a horizontal passage (13), and continued advancing about thirty feet, where the passage widens or forms a recess eleven feet deep. We then turned to the left into a passage (15) twenty feet long, which brought us to a chamber (16) thirty-two feet long, and nine feet nine inches wide, and eight feet in the centre and six feet on the, sides in height, with a pent roof. A number of calcareous stones, about eighteen inches long, eight wide, and six high, were piled against the wall. Belzoni informed me, that when he first entered it there were some inscriptions formed by the smoke of a candle on the roof, which he fancied were Coptic; but as several visitors have since taken similar means to commemorate their curiosity, they have become so blended, that nothing is to be clearly distinguished. We returned to the passage (13), which runs north about thirty feet more, at the end of which is a niche to receive a portcullis similar to that before mentioned (17). This had evidently been of granite, and fragments of it lay about. We then ascended the passage (18) which runs in the same inclination, and I followed Mr. Salt up to the place where the passage is filled with large blocks of hewn calcareous stone (19), at forty-seven feet six inches from the niche. This passage issues out precisely at the base of the pyramid.

Our next investigation was directed to the passage leading to the centre and chamber. This passage is almost entirely cut out of the living rock; but about half way there are some stones introduced, as Belzoni supposes, to fill up fissures in the stratum. In many parts the walls are encrusted with fine crystals, frequently resembling a fleece, and sparkling beautifully with the reflection of our candles. This passage is five feet eleven inches high, three feet six inches wide, and the whole length, from the perpendicular to the great chamber (11), is 158 feet eight inches. We now entered the great chamber, which is, according to Belzoni, forty-six feet three inches long, sixteen feet three inches wide, and twenty feet six inches high. The architect has taken advantage of a large mass of native rock to fill up the centre of the pyramid, as almost the whole of this chamber is cut out of it, excepting a part of the roof towards the western end, which is of masonry, perhaps introduced for the same reason as that I before mentioned in explaining the passage. The floor of this chamber is exactly level with the base of the pyramid: the roof is also of a pent-house form. On the wall, immediately opposite where we entered, Belzoni has inscribed, in the Italian language, in large letters, which extend from one end to the other, his name and the date of his discovery. In the west end of the chamber, a sarcophagus of granite is buried in the ground to the level of the floor, and placed due north and south. This sarcophagus is eight feet long, three feet six inches wide, and two feet three inches deep inside, surrounded by large blocks of granite, placed there in all probability to prevent its removal; but Belzoni has determined upon that measure, though it must be attended with much labour. The lid is placed diagonally across it. Belzoni, however, found in it the bones of a human skeleton, which are in all probability, if one of the accounts of Herodotus be correct, the bones of King Cephrenes, who is supposed to have built this pyramid. He presented me with three or four pieces, and on learning it was my intention to deposit them in the British Museum, he added others, making in all seven pieces. The floor of the chamber has been forced up in several places, doubtless in search of treasure. Under one of these stones he found a piece of metal, evidently the head of an iron mallet or hatchet. This, which he was so good as to give me, I also intend for the British Museum. Very high up in the centre of the wall there are two small square holes, about a foot in diameter, one to the north, and the other to the south. They are of considerable depth, like those in the great chamber of the first pyramid, and I cannot conjecture what can possibly have been their use.

On the wall of the western side of the chamber is an Arabic inscription, which declares, “This pyramid was opened by the masters Mehomed El Aghar and Otman, and inspected in the presence of the Sultan Ali Mehomed the 1st Yugluck.” Belzoni stated that there were several inscriptions on the walls, but I was not satisfied as to the character in which they were written. The crystals on the walls had formed most beautiful shapes, and so hard that it was with great difficulty I broke some off to keep as relics of my interesting excursion. On the left hand side of the passage, on returning, a few feet from the great chamber, two Arabic inscriptions give the names of two men who had visited this pyramid, the last thing worthy of note which I remarked in the interior of this stupendous fabric; issuing from which, we revisited the light of day.

I cannot help thinking that this pyramid must contain more chambers, which it is possible may yet be discovered. I should conceive that at whatever period it may have been opened, it was immediately closed again, as the state of the granite passage, the whiteness of the calcareous walls throughout, and the very small number of inscriptions, prove that only few persons had entered it. On the block of granite across the entrance on the outside, Belzoni has also cut his name – and certainly no one has a better claim to be indulged in this innocent vanity.

Having dressed ourselves, we proceeded, attended by a whole troop of Arabs, to the buildings of masonry situated to the west of the great pyramid. The paintings in the interior of one of these are particularly curious, representing, among other things, the mode by which large stones were transported both by land and by water. In the former of these the stone is placed on a sledge drawn by bullocks with collars, which at the present period are not used in the country. Figures of persons ploughing, driving herds of cattle, fishing, in several instances cooking immense quantities of provisions and in one design, an uncommonly spirited fight in boats, in which the weapon made use of is a spear, and the figures are particularly slender and black. They appeared to me to represent persons similar to the Arabs I saw at Mocha, or the slight forms of the inhabitants of the southern parts of India. They did not strike me as having the features of the negro.

I now determined to ascend the great pyramid, and we walked together to the entrance, which is on the north side, where, leaving Mr. Salt and Belzoni, I started with a few Arabs, to undertake the difficult task. It was by the north-east angle that I climbed up, for the stones which form the steps are from three to four feet high; but after mounting a considerable way, I was completely fatigued, and, added to this, a violent north wind blew the sand from the desert continually over me. If I looked down, I was affected with sickness, and I had no companion to stimulate me by emulation: but my perseverance, which was about to take its flight, rallied afresh on my recollecting the regret I should feel, did I not overcome the difficulties; and after many halts to rest, and a good deal of assistance from the Arabs, whom I caused to take hold of each arm, I at last gained the summit.

This pyramid has been proved, by geometrical measurement, to be 577 feet in height, from its base to its summit. This is somewhat more than if the Monument were placed on the highest summit of St. Paul’s: and when an inhabitant of London is told that the area on which it stands is about the extent of Lincoln’s Inn Fields, he will form a fair and adequate conception of the sort of object which it exhibits. About two thirds up the north-east angle of the pyramid, there is a small cave or hole about twelve feet deep and high, which appears to have been formed by removing several large stones. The view from the top is extraordinary; and far from this building ending in a point, which it appears to do at a distance, there is a space of at least 20 feet square. It looks, indeed, as if it had never been finished. I observed the pyramids of Sacarrah at a distance, towards the south-east, and think there must be more than twenty of them, of which I understand the greater number have not been opened. The two causeways spoken of by Herodotus take a direction from the pyramids, one to the north-east, and the other considerably to the eastward of south-east, and are astonishing works. I followed them with my eye towards the Mokuttum mountain, till lost in the distance.

The line which bounds the cultivation and the desert is seen most perceptibly from this height, and the crop of green corn is not two yards from the burning sand; thus marking the utmost extent of the yearly inundation. The desert extends to the westward, till, in the horizon, it is blended with the sky. As it has been customary for travellers to inscribe their names on the summit, I chose a place for mine on the same stone on which Lord Belmore had inscribed his, that of his lady, and that of his lordship’s brother, Captain Corry. There was also the name of Rosa on the stone, which I concluded was that of some enterprising damsel, and gave her all due credit for her successful attempt; but have since learnt that it was the cognomen of her ladyship’s lap-dog. The calcareous stone is very soft, and I found great facility in carving mine, though a very long one. I looked for the names of the various persons who had previously visited it, – I found that of Lord Hutchinson, with the date, 1801. Several French names with the date, An. 9, of the republic. I also saw that of Chateaubriand, and somebody has taken the pains to engrave under “il n’étoit pas ici,” which I was assured is really the fact. It was my wish to have dated some letters I intended for India, from the top of the great pyramid; but I found the Arabs had only brought up my memorandum book and pencil.

In descending, which I much dreaded, being always affected with giddiness in looking down from a height, I found it extremely easy; the reason I know not, except my being aware that the alternative was to remain the rest of my days upon the top of the pyramid, or of continually looking down during my descent; and I had no return of my usual complaint. I found my companions at the entrance, and after resting a short time, was accompanied by Belzoni through the interior, which is a most distressing and fatiguing perambulation. So much has been said by all travellers of this pyramid, that I should have wholly passed it over, had it not been for the late discovery of Captain Caviglia. The extreme heat of the interior is not to be described; and what with climbing, scrambling, and advancing up the steep passage, particularly after my previous fatigue, I do not recollect ever being so distressed.

This story continue here

from Journal of a Route across India, through Egypt to England, in the latter end of the year 1817, and the beginning of 1818
by Lieutenant-Colonel Fitzclarence, 1819