Part Two

Troubles at Abou-Simbel (2)

July 11. – On the first day, the fifty men that came worked very badly, and we found that the burthen of the song which they sung, by way of stimulating each other, was, “that it was christian money they were working for – that christian money was very good, and that they would get as much of it as they could.” This Nubian song, though cheering to them, was not much so to us. In the evening we returned to the village of Abou-Simbel; and perceiving we should never make any progress with people who, being sure of their pay whether they laboured well or ill, would only work five hours in the day, we sent to the cashiefs, and concluded a bargain with them and the natives “to open the temple” for 300 piastres. At this time none of us thought it would take more than four days to accomplish the undertaking; so little did we know of the real nature of our enterprise.

July 12. – In the morning, the two cashiefs and about one hundred men came and worked very well, thinking they could open the temple in one day. The chiefs requested we would not interfere in directing the labourers where to work, as it was now their own affair: they had undertaken the task, and were responsible for its execution. In the evening our boat’s crew came and begged the intercession of the cashiefs to make their peace with us. They were the more anxious for an accommodation, as by the quarrel they lost the heads, skins, and offal of the sheep which we occasionally killed. We affected much reluctance, but ultimately forgave them; the cashiefs bursting out into a violent rage against the crew, on our remarking that no European travellers would ever come into the country again, when they heard of the usage we had received. The dispute was scarcely at an end before our sailors asked for backsheeish; this we positively refused till we arrived at Philae, and then only on condition of very good behaviour: all came now and kissed our hands in token of reconciliation. At sun-set we returned to time village of Abou-Simbel; when the chief of the labourers asked for 200 out of the 300 piastres, though they had consented to be paid only when the temple was opened; we were, however, obliged to give 150, but said we would give no more till the work was finished.

July 13. – Only Halleel Cashief and about sixty men came; they worked very ill, and expressed doubts as to there being any door, thought they had not yet got more than four feet down. While we were endeavouring to persuade them to persevere, one of the natives, a carpenter, with an audible voice, made a speech, time substance of which was, “that they would work the whole of that and the two successive days, and if in that time they found a door, well and good; if not, they would labour no longer.” This declaration was received with tumultuous applause, in which we thought it good policy to join, as neither our approval or displeasure would have had any weight with them; and it was possible that our appearing to be in good humour with them might induce them to do their work more cheerfully. In the evening we returned to the village, complained to the cashiefs of the badness of the work, and noticed the approach of the ramadan, when it was probable we should no longer be able to get workmen, and therefore our present efforts would be useless. Both the brothers now promised us “a host of men next morning,” and that they should begin early. While we were discoursing, some Mograbins, on their way from Cairo to Dongola, were introduced: we remarked their melancholy looks, but were then ignorant of the cause. Our business being at an end, we retired to our boat, after having feasted on doura cake and dripping.

July 14. – Rose early, and sent to the cashiefs that we were ready; but, after waiting for three hours, they sent word to us to go, and they would join us by land; so busied were they in plundering the Mograbins, that we and our temple were not thought of. We accordingly went, and found only fifty men, who were doing little more than nothing; and none of the leaders or attendants were present, except old Mouchmarr, an elderly servant of the cashiefs. We asked him the reason of his master’s absence, when he said “that we must not think him a Barbarin; that he was an Arab, and only lived in this country by constraint; that both the cashiefs were robbers, and were at that moment pillaging the caravan of Morocco; and that the whole tribe of natives were nothing but a gang of thieves.” We could not help laughing at the remarks of the old man, which, though true enough, would have come better from another quarter, as he himself was quite as great a rogue as the rest. At noon Daoud Cashief arrived. The men still continuing to work without any energy, we remonstrated with Daoud, but only received promises of great doings on the morrow. We returned to the village in the evening, when the men asked for the remainder of the money; this was refused, and in consequence there was much discontent. Halleel Cashief came and endeavoured to persuade us to pay the money; but we persisted in refusing till they should have worked the third day, according to their own promise. We were now told that if we paid the money, they would work the next morning; but if not, that not a man of them would come. We still refused. Halleel now asked for one of Mr. Salt’s handsome pipes, which the crew had told him was in the boat; having previously begged the janissary to give him his silk waistcoat, and request of our Greek servant his Mameluke sabre. This latter article belonged to Mr. Salt: it was very valuable; and to save it, we had pretended it was the property of the Greek, not thinking the cashief would condescend to beg of our servants. He had also asked the soldier for his pistols, offering him a slave in return; – all was however refused.

Tuesday, July 15. – Both cashiefs came, and some of the chiefs; one in particular, a stranger, was highly dressed, and we were told he was a leading character, and had much influence with the natives; that nothing, could he done without him. But we had now seen enough of the character of the Nubians to perceive that this was only a trick to induce us to give the new comer some presents; and we therefore affected to take no notice of him, determined for the future to give no more than we could help. In the morning the men worked with some spirit: our crew assisted them, and behaved well; but towards evening the work went on badly. We returned to the village. On the way Hassan told us we must go back to Philae, in order to repair the boat, which he asserted to be leaky. We soon gave him to understand that we had no intention of returning till we had accomplished our work. Soon after dark, Halleel came to the boat and repeated his request for the pipe, but was again refused.

Wednesday, July 16. – First day of the moon, ramadan or Turkish fast, during which they do not eat or drink from sun-rise to sun-set. Early this morning Halleel sent us a watermelon, and shortly after made his appearance, begging time pipe again, which, being worth upwards of sixty piastres, had greatly attracted his notice. This third attempt was evaded, and he set off in a pet, without even taking leave, mounting his horse for Derry, where he intended passing the ramadan. We now wont to Daoud’s tent to pay him a farewell visit previous to his departure. He asked no what were our intentions respecting time temple? We told him we were determined to work ourselves, and persevere till we came to the door. He appeared much surprised at this; and said it was impossible we could succeed, recommending us to return, and come again after the month of ramadan – hoping doubtless to get more presents. To convince him of our resolution to proceed, we told him that the Nile would as soon change its course, as we our determination when once it was taken. He now asked the sailors if we had solicited their assistance; when they told him we had not mentioned time subject to them, which indeed was true. He then asked when we thought we should reach the door. We told him that was very uncertain. He said if we thought we should be only three or four days, he would remain, but if more, he must be off. We answered that we expected it would be eight or ten days before our work was over; but we promised, that whenever we should be near the door, we would give him notice, that he might be present, and get his share of the gold. He gave a tacit sort of consent for us to proceed, and we took our leave, thanking him for what he had done for us. Amongst the warlike instruments in his tent, we observed a shield made of a crocodile’s skin: it was remarkably strong; one of the protuberances of the animal’s back served for time boss or centre, and one of those of the tail for the hollow of the elbow. The natives assured us it would resist a musket ball. In general, Nubian shields are made of the shin of the hippopotamus. At twelve o’clock we sailed for the temple; and on the passage took occasion to represent to the reis and crew, that now we were about to be left together, we hoped they would continue to behave well and conduct themselves peaceably, promising on our part every indulgence they could reasonably expect, provided we had no fault to find with them. They all promised to behave themselves orderly and quietly. We dined at one; and at three o’clock set off to begin our labour, going up quietly that we might not wake the crew who were asleep en the beach; as we wished, by an apparent indifference on our part as to whether they assisted or not, to keep down their demands. We now stripped to time waist and commenced, six in number, including the Greek servant and the janissary, with a good will, and soon found that we made considerable progress. We resolved to keep to our work, and regularly to persevere from three o’clock till dark in the evenings, and from the very first dawning of the day till nine in the mornings. After we had worked about an hour, some of the crew came up. They appeared astonished to see us labouring without our shirts, and expressed surprise at time progress we had made. They now began to assist, which we appeared to take no notice of. They worked well; and at dark we left off; having done as much as (speaking within bounds) forty of the natives would have done in an entire day. Our hands certainly suffered a little from blisters: I had nine on one hand, and eight on the other. We were careful to encourage our sailors, and not to expect too much from them; as their being prohibited from eating or even drinking during the day, rendered their case very different from ours. We returned to our boat in high glee at the favourable appearance of affairs. We had scarcely supped and retired to bed, when we hoard a boat approaching. It proved to be that of Daoud Cashief, who was on his way to Derry: he had given a passage to one of our sailors, who had waited behind at time village to get bread made. He sent us a kid with a civil message, and a request that we would spare him some of our small coffee-cups, which were rather handsome. We sent him two and at the same time requested of him a ludri (a skin to contain water), which he gave us. Lastly, a message came to say that he had left several of his servants behind him at Abou-Simbel with orders to assist us with men; to procure no supplies and provisions; and, in short, to render us any service we might require. We thanked him, and renewed our promise of apprising him when we should be near the door, that he might not think we intended to open the temple secretly during his absence; for they all believe we expect to find money. Daoud now departed. We gave our crew two piastres each man, and one to each of the boys – there were six men and two boys – and told them that if they consented to work at similar hours, and in the same manner as we did ourselves, they should daily receive the same sum. These conditions were acceded to with great apparent eagerness.

Thursday, July 17. – We started at the dawn of day and worked hard, fourteen in number, till nearly nine o’clock, when the sun being at a considerable height, and shining directly on us, the heat obliged us to desist. We had made considerable progress and as we found that all our efforts were directed in the right way, we had reason to be well satisfied. The crew worked tolerably. Hassan was on the opposite side of the river getting bread made, and looking out for a sheep. We dined at one, and at three renewed our operations. One of the crew did not come this evening. We took no notice of it, resolving to give him only half a day’s pay. The rest worked pretty well. We continued till starlight, and made great progress. At the latter part of the evening, Hassan returned, but brought nothing with him.

July 18. – In the morning, at the very first dawning of day, we again started to our work and called the crew; but, as we expected, from the moment Hassan arrived, they all refused to work, alleging that the pay was not sufficient; that it was now ramadan, and that they ought to have thirty piastres per day. Our janissary now informed us that they had spoken of this aloud in the night in order that he might tell us. Seeing them in this humour, we told them that those who did not choose to work might let it alone. At half-past eight we left off, having done nearly as much work as if they had been with us: indeed we were astonished to see what steady persevering labour would do. One of the Abou-Simbel men came this morning and worked very fairly, promising to bring ten more on the morrow: there came also a chief from the opposite side of the river with an offer of twenty men. We told him our terms of two piastres per day for each man, and that it was our intention to pay the money into the men’s own hands, as we learnt that the cashiefs and chiefs had given each labourer one piastre only, and retained the other for themselves. At three, we renewed our operations. A few of the crew came, but worked very badly; – we left off at dark.

Saturday, July 19. – We commenced our labours before daylight. Only two of the crew came, and three other lads. The promised men from Abou-Simbel and the opposite side of the river not arriving, we continued working till half-past eight; when, just as we were about to leave off, Halleel Cashief and his court of bullies made their appearance in a boat; and, landing near our bark, came up to see what was doing. Immediately we saw them approaching we left off work, and, suspecting their roguish intentions, to foil them we went to bathe. The men from the opposite side of the river, about thirty in number, now arrived, but without tools: this disappointed us a little. On coming out of the water, we went to visit Halleel Cashief, as a compliment, and to keep up appearances. While so doing, a desperate dispute tack place between our janissary and Hassan, who seeing the former was not armed, chased him into the boat with his drawn dagger, uttering savage imprecations. Halleel made a pretence to interfere; but soon after, while we were settling the dispute, he sneaked away in his boat with all his attendants, without taking leave: indeed he was off before we were aware, and we were very glad to be rid of him.
Our Greek servant now informed us that Halleel had asked for some coffee; and, on being told there was none, had desired the servant to say nothing to us about his having asked for it. He was very inquisitive about the stay we intended to make; and seemed desirous we should call on him at Derry on our return, no doubt in hope of getting something more. The men worked pretty well to-day. The Abou-Simbel man, who had promised to bring his nine assistants, never made his appearance. This we clearly saw was Halleel’s doing. At night, when paying the men, we had a dispute with some of them, who endeavoured to impose on us by false tickets. These tickets were slips of paper on which Mr. Belzoni wrote his name, and issued them out to the workmen in the morning; and on producing them in the evening they received their pay. This day the Darfur caravan, of four thousand camels, laden with gum, ivory, ostrich-feathers, tamarinds, rhinoceros’ horns, slaves, &c., passed on their way to Cairo. The mamelukes had made them pay 9000 dollars (upwards of 2000_l_.) at Dongola. Some of the jelabs who led the caravan came to see our operations. They had long hair greased with oil, and hanging down in ringlets: some had it plaited. They wore sandals, had each a long spear, and altogether were singular figures.

Sunday, July 20. – At twilight we renewed our labours, and had sixty-four men to work. The crew stimulated them by a good example, which, coupled with our own personal attendance, produced a good morning’s labour. At three p.m. we recommence our operations and got on tolerably well. This evening one of Daoud Cashief’s staff arrived, with some aqua vitae and a few dates as a present. He also brought Irby and me some new Nubian clothes. Two suits cost us twenty-four piastres, or twelve shillings; double what we had given for better things of the same kind at Momfalout. In the evening our cook threw a kettle of water in the face of a fellow who asked him for money in a threatening manner. This truly cook-like mode of assault unsheathed the Barbarin’s sword (for the most trivial occurrence produces their drawn weapons), and it was with difficulty we could prevent some serious mischief from ensuing. At night Daoud Cashief’s messenger left us, having failed in an attempt to beg a pipe for his master.

Monday, July 21. – This day no men came from the opposite side of the river, but we had about forty from Abou-Simbel. They worked tolerably well, and brought to light the bond of the right arm of the statue, to the north of the door, which was much broken. The discovery was highly satisfactory to us, as it proved that the statues were seated, and, consequently that we should not have to dig down so deep as if they had been standing figures. In the evening, the men worked pretty well; and towards the close of the day, we uncovered a projecting part of the wall roughly chiselled, uneven in its surface, and having every appearance of unfinished work. As far as we could see down, which was not more than six or eight inches, it still continued the same. The projection was about four inches from the plane surface of the front of the temple, and it appeared to fill up the whole space between the two centre statues. This being exactly the place where we expected to find the door, the sudden change from a flat finished exterior to a coarsely-chiselled uneven surface, was precisely the circumstance most calculated to give the impression that the temple was unfinished, and that there was no door. Indeed we could not in any other way account for an appearance so extraordinary and unexpected. Discouraging as this discovery was, we nevertheless resolved to proceed with our work, and to dig down till we had ascertained, beyond all possibility of doubt, whether there was an entrance or not.
About eleven o’clock at night, a boat arrived from the opposite side. They did not make any noise; hot the reis sent word that he had brought a sheep for us. The message was accompanied with the present of water-melon.

Tuesday, July 22. – At daylight we found a great assemblage of people, the boat having brought them over in the night; and at the same time there arrived a considerable number of persons from Abou-Simbel. As these two parties amounted to treble the number we wanted, we retired to our boat to avoid disputes, leaving thirty tickets with old Mouchmarr, with instruction to employ only that number. Returning in about half an hour, we found he had only given out twenty of the tickets, keeping the other ten to himself; and so intending to pocket twenty piastres. While we were settling this with the old rogue, a violent quarrel ensued between the natives of Abou-Simbel and the party from the opposite shore, as to who should be employed and, after much noise and confusion, hostilities having commenced in a slight degree between the parties, the whole of them, amounting to nearly two hundred, departed, shouting and hooting, the stronger party not permitting the Abou-Simbel people to work. As they retired, our crew serenaded them with repeated cries of “barout, barout,” which means powder, powder, an article they are not very partial to. In the evening we renewed our labours without any assistance; but soon had the crew and about twenty volunteers, who worked very well, considering we had only three implements, the Abou-Simbel men having taken away four out of the seven we had hitherto used. The instrument was of this form, and the mode of working was to fix it perpendicularly in the sand, and then to pull it forward by a cord attached to it; one person was stationed at the handle to fix it in the sand, and another at the cord by which it was pulled forward. Instead of one, the Arabs generally employed from four to six men at the cord. This evening we came to the chair of the statue; but still there was no indication of a door; the unfinished work continuing, though the figure, drapery and all, was perfectly finished, as far as we could see down.

Wednesday, July 23. – It was curious to observe in the morning, on the smooth surface of the sand, drifted by the night breeze, the tracks of the snakes, lizards, and other animals, which had come down to the water’s side during the night to drink; and we could plainly discern the traces of their return to their solitary haunts in the desert. Sometimes these tracts indicated the presence of reptiles of considerable size; and we now could easily account for the dread our guides expressed of walking near the water’s side on the night we returned from the second cataract. We renewed our operations at the very first appearance of day, and soon had about twenty-six workmen, together with the crew. Between eight and nine o’clock, as the people were working, we perceived a boat full of men coming over from the opposite side. As soon as the Abou-Simbel people made them out, they all set off with old Mouchmarr at their head; the latter saying he knew who they were, and would go and treat with them, as they were coming to prevent our work. The old fellow, it appeared afterwards, was more intent on his own safety; as both he and his party went and hid themselves in caves in the mountains. Suspecting something, we sent for all our arms from the boat, and waited the event. The newly-arrived party now made their appearance, about forty in number, armed mostly with muskets, pistols, sabres, and pikes; they were much better dressed, and made a better figure than the attendants of Daoud and Halleel. There were two with white turbans, who appeared to be the leaders: these approached in advance of their attendants; and, after the usual salaams and ceremony of salute, seated themselves near us, and presented us with two sheep, which their men had brought with them. We now desired our janissary to ask them the intention of their visit, and to tell them we had nothing to dispose of, having given all we had to spare to the two cashiefs below. They replied that they wanted nothing; that they were in the employ of the pasha; that their office was to keep order and tranquillity in the country, and that they wished to know if any obstacles on the part of the inhabitants rendered their assistance necessary, as they were ready to be of service to us, hoping that on our return to Cairo, we should not fail to speak favourably of them to the pasha. We replied that we were going on tolerably well, and that we did not stand in need of any assistance. After sitting about half an hour, they went down to the other temple, followed by all their attendants, and soon after sent our Greek servant up with a message, “that they were at war with the other two cashiefs; that they were greater than they; that they were the governors of this country; that when the others killed one man, they could kill two; in short, that we had given a gun, shawl, cusp, and tobacco, to both Daoud and Halleel, and why, they wished to know, was nothing given to them, who possessed double the authority in this country, and could prevent our labour whenever they pleased? that they must have the same, and more presents than we had already given, or that we should not open the temple.” They also wished to know under what authority we acted, and desired to see our firman. We replied to these menaces by the same statement we had made on their arrival, viz. that we had already given away all we had to give; and we added, that as we had both the pasha’s and Deftarda Bey’s firman for doing what we were about, any violence offered to us would be sure to reach their ears. Their answer was that they cared nothing about the pasha. On seeing the firmans, they said they were good for nothing, being written in Turkish, not Arabic; that they had no Turkish interpreter; and that were the firmans even in Arabic, nothing but presents would induce them to permit us to proceed. The crew now thought it a favourable opportunity to ask for one of the sheep (for each of which we had given ten piastres), but we refused their request, saying, that they were mistaken if they thought it a proper time to ask gifts, when other people were endeavouring to plunder us; that as seen as the banditti were gone, and we were our own masters, we might give them something, but never through fear of them, or to gain their favour. Soon after, the two cashiefs and their gang proceeded to Abou-Simbel. We now learnt that they were Mahommed and Ali Cashief; that they lived a little above Derry, on the opposite side of the river; and were at war with Daoud and Halleel, in consequence of their grandfather (Hassan’s father) having killed some relation of Ali’s many years ago. This is what the Barbarins call the “warfare of blood for blood;” and it always lasts till an individual of one family is sacrificed to appease the other.[1] Sometimes this hostility exists for many ages between families and it is for this reason that a murderer, who is one of our crew, dares not go to Philae or the neighbourhood of Assuan, where he committed the crime. At three P.M. we renewed our operations, and had a considerable number of assistants. It was truly ridiculous to see old Mouchmarr now make his appearance, with his matchlock in his hand, and a few of the Abou-Simbel people. He took especial care to examine both up the river and down, to be sure that the cashiefs were well out of sight; and when he found the coast clear, he came to us to relate how his people had been in the habit of making slaves and prisoners of the other party; what numbers they had bound together and thrown into the Nile, &c. We rallied him about his premising to treat with them. We found that the cashiefs had prevented many of our assistants from coming, and that they had plundered the whole country, taking two sheep from every sackey, and ten piastres from those who could not procure the animals. We also learnt that a fine of four dollars (thirty-six piastres) was to be levied on every one who came to our assistance. This evening our men worked very well; as they did not belong to Abou-Simbel, they knew they were out of the cashiefs’ roach.

Thursday, July 24. – At dawn of day we went to work again; as we had broken our water-jars we asked the crew for our ludri which we had lent them; but Hassan said it was ramadan, and that as they could not drink water in the day-time, they wanted our ludri to keep it cool for them in the evening, and that they would return it when they get to Philae. We gave them to understand that we liked cool water as well as they did, and desired the janissary to take the skin without further ceremony; asking them at the same time if that was gratitude for the sheep we gave them yesterday. Hassan answered, that the sheep was lean and good for nothing, or we should not have given it. This morning we had about twenty workmen, but neither Mouchmarr nor the Abou-Simbel men came. After we had worked about an hour, a party of about thirty came from the opposite side and volunteered to assist: as they were more than we wanted, and came late, we told them we would give them only one and a half piastre each: this they rejected at first, but afterwards accepted. An hour afterwards four other men came and solicited employ: these we refused, when one of them displaying a dirty white turban as a flag, drew the whole party off with a shout. In a quarter of an hour, however, they returned; and the work went on pretty well, the armed ruffians not making their appearance. In the evening the people worked badly, being so numerous that one skulked behind the other.

Friday, July 25. – We got up at dawn of day and found one hundred men assembled, though the night before we told them that we did not want any more assistance. We explained this to them again, adding, that at most we could not employ more than twenty. They replied, that we must employ them all or none. Seeing them in this mood, we returned to our boat, resolving to wait till they were all gone; and knowing that the heat of the sun at nine o’clock would drive them away. After much noise amongst themselves, and numerous ineffectual parleys, they all set off, taking all the implements with them, and threatening our crew that, if they assisted us, they would acquaint Daoud and Halleel Cashief of it; thus showing that these brothers had ordered that no assistance was to be rendered us. Our sailors laughed at them, saying, they cared nothing about the cashiefs or any one else. Soon after this, the whole rabble crossed the water, having a dirty white turban (the prophet’s banner) hoisted. At three we renewed our work with six instruments which we had made ourselves. The crew, and also that of another bark came, and assistance was offered by a few others. We got on tolerably well.

Saturday, July 26. – At dawn of day we went up to our employment, with the same hands we had the preceding evening, in all about twenty-three persons. Our servants had another quarrel with the crew. A mameluke arrived from Dongola; he reported his countrymen in great misery at that place. We now learned that Mahommed and Ali Cashief were gone down the river again with their plunder. In the evening we renewed our operations. A man who had received money for our bread on the opposite side of the river, refused to bring it: we had a dispute in consequence, and, after much noise and confusion, half the quantity we had paid for was brought. We found the price of everything we bought had doubled since our arrival; the natives hoping by these means to force us to relinquish our work; and, with our eyes open, we were obliged to submit to the imposition.

Sunday, July 27. – At dawn of day we set to work again, and had only two assistants besides the crew, who worked remarkably well. Several volunteers came, but we rejected them on account of their laziness. One of our two assistants sang a song to cheer up the crew: this is their constant custom when working; the words were as fellows: “Oh! Nubia, my country, thou smellest like a rose; when I sleep I dream of thee, and thou appearest a garden full of flowers.” Our ideas of Nubia, where a flowering shrub is scarcely ever seen, were not in unison with this song; but it was a new proof of that happy disposition which nature implants in the breast of every man to love his native soil, be it what it may.

“The naked negro, panting at the line,
Boasts of his golden sands and palmy wine:
Basks in the glare, or stems the tepid wave,
And thanks his gods for all the good they gave.
Such is the patriot’s boast where’er we roam,
His first, best country, ever is, at home.”

At three o’clock we recommenced our operations. While we were working, a spy arrived from Daoud Cashief, who, after having deliberately examined us, began talking to the crew to draw them off from the work, and asked old Mouchmarr, who had just arrived from the village with some bread, how he dared assist us; adding, that the cashiefs would cut off his head for it. This news did not appear very agreeable to our friend, who now desisted from working. Our young mameluke friend, who understood the Barbarin language unknown to the crew and natives, told us of this. The spy next informed us that a firman had arrived from the Grand Signior to supersede the pasha in his government, and that new troops were now at Cairo. So paltry an attempt to alarm us was met by a hearty laugh, which made both the spy and his countrymen look very foolish; until, seeing the joke went against them, they put it off by a laugh also. In the evening old Mouchmarr came to be paid for his bread; and, on being asked to bring more, said he did not like to tell us a falsehood – that he had strict injunctions against bringing anything more, or, indeed, rendering us any further assistance. We further learned, that the whole of the natives on both sides of the river had mutually agreed that nothing was to be sold to us; but it was hinted that we might have some men to work if we chose: however, as our money was getting low, and we found that we did almost as much without as with them, we sent word that we wanted none of them: we had three days’ bread, and our work had arrived at such a point that we should seen ascertain whether there was any door or not: we felt ourselves, therefore, quite independent of our troublesome neighbours. Mouchmarr now took his leave. It is but justice to the old man to say that he behaved better than any of his countrymen.

Monday, July 28. – We commenced our operations at the usual hour, with only our sailors and the mameluke, no Abou-Simbel men making their appearance. All worked pretty well. This morning no milk was brought. We affected to take no notice of this; and at breakfast were particularly careful that the crew (who came down and were watching us narrowly, to see what effect the want of this luxury would have upon us) should observe no change in our manner, that they might report to the natives the poor success of their scheme. At three we renewed our labours. While working, an Abou-Simbel man cams to see what was going on. He said, that if we wished it, a certain number of people would come from each sackey to assist; and he asked us if we wanted provisions. We refused all assistance. He then asked if we could live on stones. We replied, that we had a boat, and could go and fetch whatever we wanted, and that money would always procure something. He now said we might think ourselves fortunate in having a soldier of the pasha’s with us; as, were it not for fear of the consequences, in case anything should happen to him, the whole body of natives would prevent our work by force. We replied, that we were determined to proceed; and that even were the soldier not with us, we would persist in our undertaking. He now began to brag of the number of armed people they could muster from this neighbourhood: we, however, laughed at him; and he left us, having failed in all his designs. Our crew this evening worked very well; and we thought it good policy to tell them we noticed their exertions.

Tuesday, July 29. – At dawn of day we recommenced our labours with the crew, and made considerable progress. No strangers made their appearance; the one who assisted us yesterday being deterred by the threats of the spy. In the evening, at three, we renewed our work. Towards the close of day, the sailors requested to be dismissed, that they might go to Abou-Simbel to get bread for themselves. We suspected come bad intentions on their part, but said nothing. Hassan had previously endeavoured to steal some of our doura (for bread we had none); but we were too sharp for him, and made his boy give us back what he had taken.

Abou-Simbel by Roberts

Wednesday, July 30. – At twilight we went to work again; the crew coming as usual. This morning a man brought us milk again; but said he was obliged to do it clandestinely. This was a real luxury; as we found, after four hours’ hard work on an empty stomach, that a limited ration of doura grain, dried dates, and water, to which we were now reduced, was not very sumptuous fare. The reis of the bark, who had before cheated us of our bread, now made his appearance with some spirituous liquors, which he said he had brought as a present from the wife of Daoud Cashief. We clearly saw that this was a trick to get a present for the bearer, which is expected to be double the value of the article given. We therefore refused it as a gift; but offered to purchase it. After some hesitation he consented. It was the spirit distilled from the date; but without the addition of aniseed, which in Egypt makes it palatable. We generally took a little before dinner as a tonic; for, without something of the kind (the average of the thermometer being 112° Fahrenheit in the shade), we found that we had no appetite. As soon as he had got his money he took himself off to the other side of the river, having evidently come to see if we yet began to complain of the want of provisions. But although we had nothing to eat but doura, and only enough of that for four days, we never once mentioned the subject to him. This evening we came to a projection, evidently a cornice, though much broken by the shock of an immense block of stone that had fallen on it Beneath the projection, we found a plane and smooth surface, and a tablet of neat hieroglyphics, highly finished, carved upon it. This strong indication of a door cheered us greatly.
At three we returned to our operations; and, by digging down and carrying away the sand in two boxes, we removed a sufficient quantity to make out about a foot of a tablet surmounted by a torus, and one end of a broken cornice above it; which, having been broken by some accident, had evidently been chiselled away subsequently, with the design of renewing it. The furrowed surface, and the marks of the tools in all directions, though rude and unfinished, prove this to be the case; and thus the mystery of the unfavourable appearances which had formerly given us so much uneasiness was cleared up. This evening Hassan asked, with more than usual impudence, for the pay of the crew, adding, that he wanted it before it was dark.

Thursday, July 31. – At twilight we resumed our task, and palisadoed the part which we supposed to be immediately over the door, by driving in piles of date trees, and pouring at the back of them mud mixed with sand, to keep the enter sand from running in between them. Just as we were going to leave off work, some armed men came from the opposite side of the river, who had been called over by Hassan: when we inquired the reason of his sending for them, he said he wanted the boat from the opposite side, to go and get some provisions for the crew. Our sailors talked freely with the strangers, who appeared very intent on what we were doing. This day the mameluke took his departure for Cairo. He went on a small reed raft which a Nubian was conducting down the river. Hassan ran with great eagerness to send some message by the Nubian: no doubt to apprise the cashiefs below of the progress of our work. In the evening we resumed our labours, with the crew and two strangers; and towards sun-set we came to the corner of the door: it was rather broken. The sailors, on seeing it, expressed great signs of joy, uttering cries of “backsheeish, backsheeish,” and immediately asked us if it was not true, that we had promised them money whenever we should find the door. We replied, that we certainly had promised them a present, and would give it when we had entered the temple. The fellows now began working hard to enlarge the entrance, appearing in high good humour, and occasionally repeating the favourite word “backsheeish,” tyep, tyep – good, good. At dusk we had made an aperture nearly large enough for a man’s body; but we could not tell whether it would be necessary to draw up the sand from the entrance or not, which left us in great uncertainty as to the time when our labours would end; for, should the temple be much filled with sand, we might have a prodigious deal of work to do yet. When we returned to the boat, Hassan told Captain Irby and myself, it was totally impossible we could ever get into the temple by palisadoing; that the sand would fail on us as fast as we dug down, and that it was like attempting to dig into the Nile: at the same time he offered to forfeit his beard if we succeeded. All the crew joined in the same assertion. But we knew that it was the only method of getting at the door, unless we cleared it altogether, which would have taken a good month more. We resolved to begin the next morning by moon-light, and apprised the crew of our intention, that they might not think we wanted to steal in by ourselves, and thus bring away the gold unknown to them. As the day’s discovery had put us all in good humour, our sailors attempted to profit by it. They asked our cook for his new silk waistcoat, and begged of the Greek his new blue gown. From us they did not solicit anything further, thinking it best to wait till they got our backsheeish.

This story continue here

From Travels in Egypt and Nubia, Syria, and the Holy Land
by Charles Leonard Irby and James Mangles, 1823

Notes

¹ “The revenger of blood himself shall slay the murderer.” Numbers, xxxv. 19. “Ye shall take no satisfaction for the life of a murderer.” Ibid. 31.