Part one

Troubles at Abou-Simbel

June 27. [1817] – We this day saw two crocodiles; our men requested us to fire some muskets to frighten them away, but were not afraid of towing the bark in the water close to the bank where we observed them. I think, from what we have noticed of these animals, that it is very seldom, if ever, they attack people. This morning a man on horseback came down to the river side, and said he was sent by Halleel Cashief with salam alicams (compliments) be, however, seemed chiefly intent upon getting something for himself; and, in a moment, enumerated several articles which he requested us to give him; such as coffee, snuff, gunpowder, salt, &c.; we told him we had none to spare, as we reserve those articles for Hassan Cashief, the chief person in this country, and whose favour it is necessary to gain by presents, in order to get permission to open the temple at Abou-Simbel. That chief has pledged his word to Mr. Belzoni, that none but the English should be allowed to work there, on condition that he, Hassan, is to have half the gold that was found its it: for these people have no idea that our researches for antiquities in this country have any other object than to get treasure; and they laugh when we tell them we are looking for stone statues, and slabs with inscriptions on them. They cannot conceive what motive can induce us to come such a distance, and expend three or four thousand piastres to clear away an accumulated mass of sand, for no other purpose than to find some granite figures. We now observed the water to be exceedingly muddy, and of a reddish yellow colour. We stopped a short time at Offidena with a view of purchasing a statue; but after much prevarication, we could not even get a look at it. The natives of this place are both handsome and well made, a circumstance very rare in Nubia; their complexion, however, was unusually dark. In the evening we arrived at Derry, and sent word to Daoud and Halleel Cashief, the two sons of Hassan, (who, most unfortunately for us, was at Dongola, and by whose absence we lost the friendship and assistance of the only honest man in the country,) that we were going up to open the temple at Abou-Simbel, and would thank them to send orders for us to be permitted to work; adding, at the same time, that we would wait on them and pay our respects on our return. While waiting there we had a specimen of Nubian dancing; about twelve lads assisted; the music consisted only in clapping the hands, in the doing of which they kept very good time. I cannot say much for the elegance or gracefulness of the dance, as it was nothing more than lifting up the right foot and stamping it down again, then rising up on the left foot by the spring of the instep, and afterwards letting the feet rest on the flat sole. This was done for a backsheeish which we gave them. We also gave the reis and crew a backsheeish of ten piastres, but they said it was not enough, so we added another five. At night, when we stopped, the reis came to us to say that we were two parties, and therefore should by rights pay double the money we had agreed to give for the boat. They also complained that we had not given sufficient to the crew to eat; that Jacques¹ (an agent of Mr. Drovetti, a Frenchman living in this country, and who hired the boat not long before us,) always gave them one-third of his coffee, meat, bread, and every think that he had; in short, they imagined that up here we were at their mercy. Now, as we had regularly fed them, and given them coffee without stint every day, we thought it time to come to an understanding, and therefore told them that the boat was at our disposal, and that it was no affair of theirs if we had two or five different parties; and with regard to food, that as they were not contented with what we had given them spontaneously, they should have nothing. We have no doubt but our janissary and the Greek servant put them up to this request, as the soldier took a poor cowardly part, and urged that as we were in a savage country, we had better temporize with them till we were on our return, thus showing of how little use these fellows are to protect travellers.

June 28. – Passed Ibrim, situated on a rude but picturesque hill of a conical shape, and of barren calcareous stone. There is not now a single inhabitant to be seen, and it presents a sad picture of ruin and desolation. Mr. Legh, in his recent publication, (a few extracts from which we have seen in the Quarterly Review for February last) says “this town was destroyed by the Mamelukes.” It was the extent or limit of his voyage in Nubia. He travelled in 1813. Mr. Bankes, it appears, was the first Englishman who ever succeeded in gaining the second cataract: he travelled in 1815. I fancy he took much about this same tour in Syria that we mean to take, though we have not as yet seen his journey traced out. In 1816, Mr. Drovetti, the ci-devant French consul in Egypt, succeeded in reaching the second cataract, together with his two agents, Rifaud and Cailliaud; these travellers, together with Sheikh Ibrahim² (a real friend of ours) and Mr. Belzoni, are the only persons that have reached thus far, Mr. Belzoni had his wife with him in man’s clothes. Poor Norden, who travelled eighty years ago, could only reach Derry. His Nubian trip is interesting, though not very instructive. Denon went no higher than Philae; and Pocock only reached that isle. On the tops of the hills near Ibrim, we remarked many conical hillocks, as marks to direct the Dongola caravans. This evening we saw a crocodile sleeping on the sand a considerable way up. We were within twenty yards of him, but as none of our muskets were loaded with ball we did not fire; we, however, made a noise to awaken him, when he rushed into the water with his mouth open, looking very savage. He was about fifteen feet long.

June 29. – We arrived at Abou-Simbel, and unfortunately found that Hassan Cashief was absent; we sent again to Derry, to Daoud and Halleel, for leave to begin to open the temple when we returned from the second cataract. The banks of the river between Ibrim and Abou-Simbel are beautifully spread over with the yellow and purple acacia, forming thick hedges, which have a very pleasing effect; a species of the tamarisk is also common here. This is the plant that produces the guns arabic, which is brought in great quantities from the interior of Africa in the vicinity of Darfur. The seeds of the acacia form also a lucrative branch of trade, being sent in the first instance to Cairo, and then shipped for Europe, where they are used for tanning. The water is now become exceedingly thick, it is not, however, unpleasant to the taste.

June 30. – While we were at Abou-Simbel, the Dongola caravan passed; it was preceded by about fifty camels, carrying provisions, &c. The conductors were armed with swords, daggers, and spears. They wore sandals to preserve the soles of their feet from the burning sand, which we now feel most sensibly, being obliged to stop every now and then to pour it out of our shoes. These sandals are mock like those worn by the ancient Egyptians, and which are often found on the feet of the mummies.
The range of the Mockatem mountains terminate nearly opposite Abou-Simbel in a remarkable manner, in a considerable number of pyramidal hills rising op from the sand, and having the appearance of a gigantic camp; some of the hills are oblong, and in the form of marquees: others are so perfectly pyramidal, that it is difficult to divest one’s-self of the idea that they are the work of men’s hands.

July 1. – Stopped opposite the villages of Farras. We here examined the site of a large Nubian city, and amongst the modern stone buildings of the Arabs found several remnants of temples, with hieroglyphics. In one was a beautiful cornice and a frieze, with the winged globe highly finished. The natives showed us some Greek and Roman ornaments, such as the spread eagle, ornamental cross, &c. Near the village are some fragments of a temple, consisting of several broken pieces of red granite pillars, also sonic small ones of beautiful white marble. From the appearance of these ruins, the fineness of the situation, and the rich plain of cultivated land near it, I think this must once have been a populous and flourishing city, in the time of the Greeks and Romans, as well as the Egyptians. Close to the ruins there is a natural rock standing by itself, with a doorway leading to a very small recess or chamber, in which are two Egyptian figures, in intaglio, on the wall: one is a man, the other a woman with the lotus flower in her hand. There is a double row of hieroglyphics near the inner figure, and a niche at the further end of the chamber about four feet square. We bathed this morning opposite a village, and on a sand-bank in front of us, at not more than a musket-shot distant, we observed two crocodiles (timsah in Arabic). As soon as we went into the water they both walked into the river, to all appearance from fear, for they are certainly both shy and timid, and, I suspect, will only attack a single person; nor then, unless they can surprise him in the water, and off his guard. We saw no more of these two, but, at noon, we saw another swimming with his nose just out of the water. We also observed a pretty large water-lizard, and a small black water-snake. To-day the sand-hills have assumed a fine green appearance, being covered here and there with tamarisk. This verdure, contrasted with the dark yellow sand, forms a pleasing diversity of colour. In the evening, while towing the boat, our sailors found a torpedo on the very brink of the river, apparently asleep. It was curious to observe their caution and timidity in approaching it; they, however, succeeded in sticking one of their daggers in his head, and by that means hauled it on shore. Our Egyptian crew had done the same near Beni Hassan. We got it on beard, and, though nearly dead, it sensibly affected my arm in laying hold of it. I felt a double shock up the arm near the elbow. It was about two feet long; had very small eyes. The belly and top of the back white; one dorsal fin, and the sides, were coloured dark brown with black spots; it had no scales. Our sailors in Egypt ate the one they caught, but the present crew would not touch this, even when dead, and consequently harmless, much lees eat it. They all told us we avoided the shock by uttering a charm, or using some magic influence. This day one of the boys of our crew brought on board a camelion. He caught it in an acacia (called in Nubia the soont) tree, which they affect more than the date, or any other tree in this country. On coming on board, it hissed and shewed symptoms of anger, evincing at the same time a great desire to make its escape. It was then of a dirty green colour, with dark spots, and whenever it was approached it turned to a dusky brown, inflating itself at the same time. I conclude that one hue is the effect of fear, and the other of indifference. We had subsequently eight of these animals on board; some of them became so tame, that when the flies annoyed us we had only to take one of the camelions in our hand, and place it near the flies, and it would catch them with its long tongue in great numbers.

July 1. – In the evening we arrived at Farras, when two natives, with the men servants of Hassan Cashief, came to us, and we made a bargain with them to procure asses and camels to go above the second cataract. One of these remained in the boat, and the other promised to meet us at Elpha on the morrow with the animals. Elpha is opposite the second cataract, and is the last habitable place to which the Nubian boats ascend.

July 2. – Arrived at the second cataract, and perceiving we should have a long distance to walk to the elevated point from whence the finest view of it is obtained, we requested the reis to take us higher up the river, in order to shorten the walk, but all the boatmen persisted that it was impracticable for the boat to go higher on account of the rocks; they offered, however, to take us if we would first go over to Elpha, on the opposite side of the river, and land all our effects, and then return again. We required the reason of this odd proposition, when they said that they were apprehensive of thieves on that side of the river. We did not however like the scheme, and therefore refused to do so, urging them to advance higher up, as we plainly perceived we might go a good league farther without the least risk, but nothing would induce them to consent. In the mean time another boat arrived, and we perceived that our reis and his sailors were in league with the men of the other boat, to force us to take their bark; but we determined to walk rather than submit to this imposition, as the new comers wanted a high price, and accordingly we set out. The sand was deep and the sun very hot, so that we soon found that walking in the desert is no joke: our trip occupied us about two hours, from one o’clock to three, the hottest part of the day. On the road we found innumerable tracts of the gazelle and other animals; we saw seven of the former in one group, and three in another. They were not so timid as we expected, and stopped to gaze on us with their ears cocked up like deer in a park: their colour is brown, not much unlike the sand, and when they are in a valley it is difficult to perceive them. We were not more than two musket-shots distant from the three we first saw. When running, they are wonderfully light and nimble, and while on the rocky parts bounded with great agility.
The spot from whence we surveyed the cataract was a projecting cliff, about 200 feet high, with a perpendicular precipice down to the river side; from this place, which is on the western bank, you look down on the cataract to great advantage; it presents a fine coup d’oeil: the river hero runs E.N.E. and W.S.W. In America this would be called “a rapid,” there being no direct fail, only an immense cluster of innumerable black rocks, with the Nile running in all directions with great rapidity, and much noise between them; they fill up the whole breadth of the river, which may be about two miles wide, and they extend as far as the eye can reach, altogether making a space of about ten miles of rapids: three below the rock on which we stood, and seven above. The scenery here is remarkably wild, there being no human habitation visible, excepting a fisherman’s hut on one of the islands, and the village of Elpha on the opposite side of the river, in the distance; some of the rocks have beds of yellow sand on them, and most of the islands have small trees and shrubs growing in the crevices: the verdure of those, contrasted with the sand and black rocks, produces a fine effect. In front, and on both sides, the view is bounded by the desert; to the southward are the tops of two high mountains rearing their head above the hills, and apparently seventy or eighty miles distant. The western bank of the river is richly covered with trees and shrubs, and it is curious to observe, immediately beyond this green margin, the barren desert, without the least vestige of verdure. Having bathed and dined on bread and cheese, we set out on our return to the bark, our guides urging us to be quick, lest we should be benighted; they said the serpents and other venemous reptiles always came down by night to drink, and they were apprehensive that we should tread on them; they also said we should meet robbers at night: these people have remarkable aversion to being in the dark. I remember, when at Dendera, our servant, an Arab, hurried off an left us behind, when he thought we should be late in returning to our boats; and whenever our lights have gone out in a tomb or temple, the Arabs have always chapped their hands, and made a noise to keep their spirits up till the light returned. In the evening, after dark, we reached the boat.

July 3. – In the morning at daylight we crossed over to Elpha, the way to which place leads through several intricate passages, amongst rocks and shoals, where the current runs with great rapidity. In one part we were obliged to pass close under a high bluff, with some ruined houses on it: it was not necessary to pass through this intricate passage, our boatmen took it when we were all asleep, and we only perceived our situation on awaking at Elpha. We here found that neither asses nor camels had arrived to take us up to the temple, the reason assigned for this was, that the price agreed on the day before, at three piastres for each animal was not enough, though the person who made the agreement was there. We now endeavoured to procure beasts of the inhabitants, but they haggled so much about the price that we could make nothing of them. While this was going on, our crew, reis and all, took their clothes, arms, and effects out of the boat, and walked off to a sackey,[3] about 20 yards’ distance, on the banks of the river: here they squatted down amongst a considerable number of natives; we had not taken notice of this proceeding, as their clothes, &c. were all kept abaft, behind the end of our cabin. When we could not agree for the asses, &c., we said we did not want them, and would go back to Abou-Simbel; with this intention we called the reis, and desired him to get the bark ready to return, but received an immediate answer that “neither he nor his crew would come.” When we sent to know the reason of their refusal, they replied, that we must give them more money for the boat before they would come on board: they also said that we had never fed them, nor had we given them backsheeish, and when we reminded them of what they had received at Derry, they said that was nothing. We now threatened to go off with the boat, and for that purpose rigged the oars across, but the wind being strong against us, we did not got under weigh. When the oars were ready we sent word to the crew to come, but they replied that they would not; that we might buy the boat if we chose, but that they would not navigate her: at the same time they said that they were people who did not value their lives a pigeon, and would take ours for half a one. While all this was passing, we observed the natives assembling in every direction, armed with spears, swords, and daggers; every minute they were arriving from all quarters on asses, and always going to the rendezvous under the sackey, where our vile crew had it in their power to tell any falsehoods against us without our being able to confute them, as neither our Arab cook, the Greek servant, or janissary understood the Barbarin language. Several of the Barbarins now came to see what arms we had, and appeared to take an exact account of everything in the shape of a weapon; for seeing affairs in this posture, we had prepared for the worst, and laid out all our arms in readiness, with which, fortunately, we were well provided. After a little time a message came from the crew that they wanted money; we sent them word that they must first come and do their duty; that as soon as the boat was off from this place, they should have a backsheeish, but not one para till they had done their duty. They new sent word that we had absolutely starved them, which was no doubt what they told the natives; they also informed us, that at this very place they had beaten Jacques Rifaud during his last voyage, and that it was done in the presence of the sheikh of the place, and all the natives; and that they had made him pay fifty piastres for the stick they had broken over his head. At Derry they had talked to us about his generosity. At this moment several of the natives came down demanding backsheeish, backsheeish, in a threatening manner. We asked the reason why we should give them money? They replied, for seeing the cataract, and coming into their country. A loaded musket was now pointed at them, and they were asked if they wanted money by force or good means; on which they retired, saying la, la, la, no, no, no, evidently not liking the sight of fire-arms. We now told them, that if we had seen the cataract without paying, so they had seen us without giving us anything as a recompense, though we were as novel a sight to them as their cataract was to us, and therefore we were quits.
Some of the most impudent now came down, and on being refused money said we should wait where we were till the high Nile: that we should neither go upward or downward, laughing and hooting at the same time; our villanous crew all this while sitting under the sackey, and enjoying the storm they had raised against us. To all their threats we constantly replied, that we were well armed, were determined not to be robbed, and that should they come to extremities, we would certainly make good use of our fire-arms, which we took care they should all see were pretty numerous and loaded. The asses were now brought, and the people endeavoured to persuade us to go off to the temple, evidently in the hope of plundering the boat when we were gone. We saw through this trick, and positively refused to go. We also told the natives, that though we were few in number, we had the firman of the pasha, and that any violence offered to us would be sure to be well punished. Those who had brought the asses now asked some remuneration for their trouble, as we had refused to hire them. This we thought reasonable; and, to draw off their attention, (for there were about forty of them), we gave eight piastres to be divided amongst the claimants. The division of this money turned affairs very much in our favour; for they began to quarrel amongst one another immediately. The crew now thinking that they should get nothing for themselves, sent a messenger, while the natives were disputing about the division of the eight piastres, to say they would come and prepare the boat provided they had the backsheeish. We repeated our terms, that they should have a present when they did their duty. Seeing they could not stir up the natives to any acts of violence, they returned to the boat, all armed, having their daggers fastened to the left arm above the elbow joint, the manner in which all the Nubians wear that weapon. As coon as the boat was ready, they asked for the money, when we gave them fifteen piastres. Before we were off, however, one of the Farras people came to be rewarded for endeavouring to hire the asses at that place, or rather for disappointing us. We offered him five piastres, which he indignantly refused; but seeing he could get no one to assist him in forcing us to give more (for all these people are impudent and bellying for their own interest, but never for another’s), came back and said he would take the five: this we now refused; when he went off in a violent rage, uttering threats that we should hear more of him below. After this, we get off from this infamous place, and soon found what a trap they had set for us; for it was with the utmost difficulty that even the crew could get the boat through the numerous narrow passages, all of them being obliged to get out into the river, and guide her through amongst the rocks; and we were also forced to pass directly under the bluff before mentioned, where the natives, had we ourselves taken the boat off, would have annoyed us greatly, while they would have been sheltered behind the ruined village. Indeed our crew wished us above all things to take the boat off, that they might represent us to the inhabitants as robbers, stealing their bark. However, we saw through all this.

July 4. – We arrived at Abou-Simbel, and found that no message whatever had been received from the cashiefs at Derry. Thus was a sad disappointment to us. Our crew, now dreading the presence of the chiefs, came to beg forgiveness; saying that they had forgotten and forgiven everything, and hoped that we had. They said they would behave well in future – “that they were poor, and always made a practice to get all they could from passengers and strangers.” They remarked, “that dogs, when repulsed, always made a practice of returning to get something as long as there was anything to be had.” This appears to be a favourite proverb amongst them.

July 6. – We visited the small temple opposite Abou-Simbel on the south side of the river. This temple is excavated in the solid mountain; the entrance is situated on the side of a rocky precipice, which below slopes into the river: there are some remains of steps cat in the rock as an approach to it. The principal chamber is 10 paces long, by 9 wide: it is supported by four pillars, two on each side of the passage. In the centre, at the further end of the apartment, there is on each side a doorway communicating with side chambers, 9 paces by 4 each. The sanctuary at the end of the principal chamber is 6 paces by 4; this is the most common mode of construction in the Egyptian temples. At present the interior of this temple appears daubed all over with dirty plaster and Greek paintings, mostly representing men on horseback. Behind these, however, we easily discovered the Egyptian figures, hieroglyphics, &c. &c., in bas-relief on stucco. As most of the figures represent men with hawks’ heads, we think this temple was dedicated to Osiris; and afterwards, perhaps, converted into a church of St. George. The sanctuary has been once ornamented, but the side apartments are plain. There is a small subterraneous chamber below the sanctuary, apparently intended for a sepulchre.

July 7. – A messenger on a dromedary arrived from Daoud Cashief to learn “if we were the same English for whom Hassan Cashief had promised to open the temple;” at the same time he sent word, that if we were the same persons he would immediately come himself but if not, he knew what to do. The latter part of the message alluded to the French, who had used every effort to get Hassan Cashief to allow them to open the temple after Mr. Belzoni’s first attempt in 1816. Mr. Belzoni, however, had fortunately, after his first effort, sent Hassan and his two sons a turban each, and some other presents, in Mr. Salt’s name: this he did to bind them to their promise, and they certainly deserve credit for keeping it. It ought to be mentioned, also, that Mr. Drovetti, in the early part of 1816, on his way to the second cataract, before Mr. Belzoni’s arrival in Nubia, had contracted with Hassan Cashief to open the temple, for 300 piastres, and left the money; Hassan promising that Mr. Drovetti should find it ready opened on his return from the falls: however, when he came back, his money was returned, the chief candidly telling him he could not undertake the task for so small a sum. As Mr. Drovetti would not go to a greater expense, the field now became open to any one else who chose to attempt the enterprise.

July 6. – In the morning we started early with two of the natives in search of a temple which they said was in the neighbouring mountains, about a “pipe” distant; for it is common among them to estimate a short journey by the number of pipes they can smoke during its performance. On our way we met two white gazelles; they were very timid; the belly and tail were perfectly white. After walking about an hour, we came to the mountains, where, having waited about two hours more, our conductors came and said, they could not find the temple, though time evening before they had described the size and every particular of it. In the evening we had a violent quarrel with the crew in consequence of their drawing their daggers on our servants. We told them that the first who drew his dagger should be severely punished: this threat, however, had so little effect, that one of them who had murdered his own brother at Philae (for which reason he did not dare to go near the island, but was taken into our boat at a village above it), said he would be the first, and swore by Alla and the Prophet that he would have one of our lives; adding, that his method was not to attack people awake, but to stab them sleeping. We laughed at their threats, and told them they were more apt at talking of these matters than in doing them.

July 10. – To-day the two cashiefs, Daoud and Halleel, arrived. They did not come to us, nor send any message to apprise us of their arrival; but pitched their tents, formed of a few date sticks, the roof covered with grass, on the sand-bank at the riverside: here they waited till we should make our appearance. We accordingly set out to visit these potentates. The first tent we entered was Halleel’s: he was a tall, handsome man, about thirty-six years of age, 6 ft. high, very corpulent, and had a fine expressive countenance, with dark eyes: his dress was a large, loose, white linen shirt, with long sleeves hanging down nearly 2 feet, an old turban, and slippers. He received us courteously, and immediately conducted us to the tent of his elder brother Daoud, who also gave us a very good reception. Daoud Cashief is rather taller than his brother, but not so fat. He is about forty-five years of age, and had a certain dignity and reserve in his demeanour that bespoke the chief: he wore a loose blue shirt. We were not long in bringing forward the subject of the temple, when he immediately said he would willingly give us his assistance to have it opened. Pancakes of flour and butter-milk were now brought, on which we all feasted, making use of fingers instead of spoons. Coffee was served, or rather a substitute for that beverage, which is not unpalatable; they call it gargadan: it is a small black grain, not unlike the English rape-seed; this they burn and pound like coffee, and it would puzzle those who are not connoisseurs so find out the difference. The two chiefs dwelt much on the attempts which the French had made to induce them to consent to the temple’s being opened, appearing to take great merit to themselves for having resisted all the offers that were made to them. The presents were now brought, and given in the name of Mr. Salt: to Daoud a handsome gun, which at Cairo cost 500 piastres; a turban which cost 50; and some trifles, such as gunpowder, soap, tobacco, coffee, sugar, &c. To Halleel a turban and smaller articles, equal in value to those which his brother had received. We then took our leave; but had scarce reached our boat when we heard that Halleel was highly offended because he had not received a gun as well as his brother. We immediately went back and endeavoured to appease him, explaining that we were not aware that he was a cashief, or we would certainly have brought him a gun as well as Daoud: indeed, the preceding year, when Mr. Belzoni was in Nubia, the younger brother had not assumed the title of cashief, nor was he treated as such. We promised that if he would have patience, and confide in our word, we would send him a gun exactly the same as his brother’s; or, if be preferred it, we would give him one of our own; though we confessed we had none half so good as that was, and advised him to wait till we got another, as he would lose much by accepting a bad one. All was, however, in vain; he would not be appeased, but sat sulky in the corner, saying, he had better guns than ours, and that he knew what to do in his own country; meaning that we should not open the temple. This was an unexpected blow to our hopes: we began to despair; and seeing nothing would please him, we retired. A message now came from Daoud to invite us to partake of a sheep he had killed in order to regale us. We went to his tent. Halleel was not there. We noticed this, and expressed our concern at the displeasure he had evinced. Daoud said his brother was only a boy; that he was indiscreet, and did not know what he did, and that we need not mind him. We sent a message to him to say we would not eat unless he came and ate with us, but he refused. Daoud now, at our request, went to bring him; but returned unsuccessful, saying, he was only a boy, and that he pledged himself we should open the temple. However, as Halleel was evidently of a mischievous disposition, and likely to do us injury, indirectly, if not directly, we judged it the best policy to bring about a reconciliation. Mr. Belzoni accordingly went himself; and, after much difficulty, prevailed on him to come: he, however, was still sulky; and we had scarce sat down to dinner, when three strangers, apparently newly arrived, entered the tent, kneeled and kissed hands, paying their respects to Halleel before they saluted Daoud. We easily saw through this little trick, which was a concerted plan between the two brothers, to induce us to give Halleel more presents, from a supposition that his rank was equal to his brother’s. The men belonged to the suite, and were disguised for the purpose.
After we had retired from dinner, we went to see if Halleel was still displeased, and found him as sulky as ever; our crew and Hassan having been with him from the first moment of his ill-humour, and doing all in their power to put him against us, for which Daoud had reprimanded them severely. Perceiving there was no pleasing him that neither presents nor promises were of any avail, we returned to the boat; Daoud having pledged his word that we should commence our operations the following morning. Late in the evening we received a message from Halleel, requesting a gun, with some powder and shot; we immediately gave him ours, which, though good for nothing, was, nevertheless, the best-looking one we had. This prompt compliance calmed his anger; and we began to congratulate ourselves on the prospect of ultimate success. The only remaining difficulty now was to make the agreement with the workmen. The Farras man, who told us at Elpha “that we should hear of him below,” now made his appearance, and endeavoured all he could to thwart our proceedings: we, however, took him to the cashiefs, and explained his conduct to them, on which they reprimanded him. After much altercation, we were glad to agree for the men to work at two piastres each per day.

Abou-Simbel by Roberts

July 11. – In the morning the two cashiefs came on board, and we proceeded to the temple, about a quarter of an hour’s row from the village. The chiefs told us we were to have sixty men, and we paid for that number; but only fifty came. We were obliged also to give them doura, as they all complained of having nothing to eat. However, we were so anxious about the temple, that we were glad to give them anything, provided they would but work. I shall proceed to describe the object of our research, and explain where it was situated, how formed, and the manner in which the mysterious door was hidden from our view. The temple is situated on the side of the Nile, between 200 and 300 yards from its western bank; it stands upon an elevation, and its base is considerably above the level of the river. It is excavated in the mountain, and its front presents a flat surface of upwards of 60 feet in height, above the summit of the sand immediately over the door, but not so much as 40 on the north side, and a little more on the south; the breadth is 117 feet. Above 30 feet of the height of the temple, from the base, is covered by the accumulated sand in the centre, and about 50 feet on either side. The surface fronting the river is hemmed in by a mountain of sand leaning against it; and the door in the centre is buried beneath this sand, which rises on each side of it, increasing the labour and difficulty of digging in a prodigious degree: for no sooner is the sand in the centre removed, than that on either side pours down, so that to gain a foot in the centre, we had to remove the whole mass of sand which leaned against the temple; this sand also was of so fine a description, that every particle of it would go through an hour-glass. In front of the temple are four sitting colossal figures cut out of the solid mountain, chairs and all: they are, however, brought out so fully, that the backs do not touch the wall, but are full eight feet from it; and were it not for a narrow ridge of the rock which joins them to the surface, from the back part of the necks downwards, they would be wholly detached. One of the statues has been broken off by a fracture of the mountain, from the waist upwards. There were originally twenty-two monkeys above the frieze and cornice: of these there are not now above twelve perfect. Under the arm of one of the great figures, we discovered the remains of the stucco with which they were once covered, and traces of red paint are discernible in many places. I think it very probable the whole front of the temple was once covered with stucco; more especially as they have used that material very liberally and skilfully in the decoration of the interior. Of the cornice over the door, which was once perfect, there is not at present more than a foot in breadth remaining, just over the corner where we entered. In the progress of our labours, we discovered what had become of the rest; and its mutilation caused us some very desponding evenings, as there was little indication of the temple being finished lower down than we could see.

This story continue here

From Travels in Egypt and Nubia, Syria, and the Holy Land
by Charles Leonard Irby and James Mangles, 1823

Notes

¹Jean Jacques Rifaud (1786-1852).

² John Lewis Burckhardt (1784-1817) who took the name of Sheikh Ibrahim Ibn. Abdallah.

³ Sackey is the Persian wheel with which they raise water from the river; it is described by Burckhardt, Norden, and ether travellers.