Travellers in Egypt

The Pasha's Entourage


“I shall devote here a little portion of time to illustrate the character of that celebrated personage who now governs Egypt; as also that of Yousouf Boghos, his first minister. The relation of this episode, as a true narrative, will probably be read with some interest.

Mohamed Aly Pacha, a native of La Cavalla, now between forty-five and fifty years of age, commenced his public career as byn-bâchy, in the Grand Vizier’s army, in the year 1800. The first step which he ascended was to be made boulouk-bâchy, at the taking of El-Arych by the Turks; afterwards to be colonel (ser chichmé) under Mehemet Pacha Khosrou. Having in the sequel besieged Khourchyd Pacha in the citadel of Cairo, in 1804, he drove the Mamelouks1 from that capital in 1805; the Albanese then confided to him the power of a Pacha, by proclamation. This power he abused, by the massacre of all the remaining Mamelouks in the city, without exception; an operation that was not completed without the most perfidious treachery. The Mamelouks, however, had been secretly plotting against his power.
Mohamed had three sons; the eldest, Ibrâhym Pacha, commanded the army of the Hedjâz against the Wechabites; the second Toussoan Pacha, who died of the plague at Rosetta two years ago, and left, a child five years of age; the third, Ismayl Pacha, is governor of Boulaq.
The pacha of Egypt has two daughters; the eldest is married to Mahram-be, defterdar and governor of Upper Egypt.
Mohamed Aly does not know himself the precise number of his soldiers, as the different commanders of corps find each an interest in leaving it indeterminate, in order to purloin a part of what they are obliged to disburse. When Mohamed Aly Pacha set out to command in person, the army of the Hedjaz, he halted at Suez to search profoundly into this matter, and, seated on the sea shore, would have the troops he had with him defile before him, intending to bestow on each soldier a donative of two talaris2. No sooner the distribution commenced than might be distinctly heard the discordant music of the murmuring chiefs, which prevented him from completing his intended operations, lest it should tend to engender insurrection. I shall, therefore, limit myself to a rough calculation of thirty thousand men, who are now well and regularly paid. In this enumeration I do not take in the uncertain amount of the Arab cavalry, very large bodies of which have occasionally joined against the Wechabites.
The character of Mohamed Aly is not apparently degraded by any sanguinary trait; but he is obstinate, headstrong, and impatient of contradiction. For his portrait I must refer to the sketch that Mohamed Pacha allowed me to make of him, and which has been lithographed and executed in a very superior style by M. Horace Vernet; it will be found in this work. Mohamed’s manners proclaim a certain air of noblesse, and if his attendants would permit him to fulfil his own wishes the result would be more satisfactory; he would establish, in greater or less perfection, the finer models of our European exclusively, even over his most dangerous enemies whom he has subdued.

Yousouf Boghos, first drogoman and minister of Mohamed Aly Pacha, is an Armenian, but born at Smyrna. His age is about forty-five; at first he was a merchant, and in 1800, came to Egypt with some employment in the suite of the Grand Vizier. Yousouf was afterwards interpreter to the English mission, and accompanied the Grand Vizier, on his return to Constantinople, where he procured a firman of drogoman, with five hundred piastres per month. Boghos returned to Cairo with Aly Pacha, then appointed governor of Egypt, and who was afterwards killed by the Mamelouks. He was next attached to the English mission, and being an expert drogoman, he became first interpreter to Khourchyd Pacha. When this latter was driven out of Cairo by Mohamed Aly, Boghos entered into his service, and has remained in it ever since, notwithstanding some affronts or menaces the situation may have been productive of.
This man, of a supple, insinuating character, manages business with a finesse bordering on a silent, attentive, respectful dissimulation. He caresses all people with a soft, obliging air, and his address has a powerful effect upon all parties, producing on their minds an acquiescence with his measures. He speaks several languages with facility. His versatile mind is a strange compound, though not exclusively composed, of audacity and subtlety; which if these is predominant it would be difficult to determine. He bears all the characteristics of immense wealth, but the situation has been long accustomed to storms, and on that account is fluctuating; and the envy kindled by his riches must occasionally apply some sense of danger to a head like his, full of care.

The pacha of Egypt has a number of Franks in his suite, and his intercourse with them is mild, benevolent, liberal, and engaging. Among them we meet with no man more deserving if this agreeable conversation than M. Drovetti, the ancient Consul of France at Cairo, who was served with distinction in our armies. And whose sage counsels have been eminent service to Mohamed Aly.
M. Drovetti has given many proofs of the disinterested benevolence that tempers his character, and of the noble use he makes of that entire confidence which he possesses, In his solicitude for the welfare of others, it may be conceived that his excellent bias has often contrived to forget himself. He presumes no otherwise on his favour than to avail himself of the privilege (whereof he is not a little proud) of pursuing his researches and attempts, without molestation, to explore the sandy excavations of Thebes and Memphis. He has a very curious collection of Egyptian antiquities, and the most ardent wish of his heart is to decorate with them the rich museum of Paris. To effect this purpose, he has overlooked many opportunities afforded him of realizing property, as offers have been made him which it would be conceived difficult, but which he has dared to resist. I shall have another occasion to speak of M. Drovetti, who has had the kindness to communicate his ideas to me, in whose judgment I have implicitly confided, to whose advice, suggested by reason and friendship, I am under deep obligations.
Mohamed Aly has retained in his service a number of Italian physicians. Dr. Gorachoukia has pre-eminently acquired his entire confidence, and so high an opinion is entertained of his prescriptions, that he superintends every preparation for the person of the pacha. This Gentleman, who is a native of Piedmont, assembles, at his most agreeable parties, Franks of all nations, who have established a kind of club of Freemasons in Cairo. The club, which the pacha is treasurer, never engages in political concerns, but is much more interested in long dinner parties, where they submit to lessen themselves in the eyes of the Orientals, but engross all the attention of the high pacha, who seems to enjoy their bacchanalian reveries, and who is accustomed to pay with a good grace and laughter, for the frequent banquets of his buffoons.

[…]

I generally used to spend the day with M. Drovetti. He had shipped off for Leghorn no small part of his collection, yet I could see remaining a number of medals of the most exquisite rarity. There ought to be a descriptive catalogue, an analytical synopsis of the whole. Such is the arrangement of these curious monuments, that the history of Egypt may be learnt from them in a few hours, and in a manner the most agreeable and certain. I could not help noticing the Arabs, as his most active applications for the vending of mummies, bronzes, coins, and occasionally cameos. The efforts of those inhabitants of the Desert to procure him these supplies, had been determined and persevering, and for the most part successful. So well did they know their man, that they always left him, as a purchaser, to estimate their articles as he thought fit. His just and noble character had merited their universal applause, and they ever departed perfectly satisfied with the prices which he set, and which were frequently to his own disadvantage.
Among the mummies, I saw the head of one that had been embalmed, three thousand years ago perhaps, but in such perfect preservation, that the physiognomy yet retained, as in a spirited outline, the expression of the last pangs of the priest of Memphis.
M. Drovetti showed me some caskets of cedar wood, richly decorated, serving for the toilettes of the ladies, with a collection of tablettes, (small working tables) needles, scissors, bobbins, wove articles of several descriptions3, pallets with the colours on them still fresh and brilliant, and a valuable sheet of papyrus.”


From Travels in Egpyt
By Count de Forbin, 1817-18


Notes

1 This title comes from the word malek, to posses, and signifies a person who is property of another.

2 A couple of pieces of eight, otherwise called douros. This Spanish coin seems to be much admired in the east, and the people are much attached to it.

3 In the temple of Minerva, at Samos, was kept a linen cuirasss of Pharaoh Omasis. The weaving was truly singular, each thread being twisted with 365 other threads, in allusion to the days of the year.

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Travels in Egypt
by Count de Fobin
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Cairo the Grand
in The Travellers Journals

The Citadel and the Mamelukes
in The Travellers Journals

Bernardino Drovetti
in The Travellers

Carlo Vidua
in The Travellers

The Massacre of the Mamelukes
in The Travellers Journals

Crossing the Nile
in The Travellers Journals

Character of several distinguished Men
in The Travellers Journals

Yusufian (bey) Boghos
in Who Was Who

Mr. Drovetti's Collection
in The Travellers Journals

The initial difficulties of an expert in hydraulics in Egypt
in A Deeper Glance


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