Character of several distinguished Men

Baroness Wolfradine Menu von Minutoli and his husband entered in Alexandria harbour on the 7th of September 1820.

[…] “While we were indulging in these reflections, a boat put out, and brought on board Mr. Drovetti, the French Consul-general, so well known in Europe for his refined taste, his indefatigable researches, his fortunate discoveries, and kind hospitality. It is to his exertions, and fifteen years labour, tha we owe the interesting collection of Egyptian antiquities which has been purchased by the King of Sardinia. During our stay at Alexandria, he kindly offered us his okel¹, which we accepted with much pleasure.
We landed the following day; and, as we crossed a part of the city to repair to the house of Mr. Drovetti, how many new objects attracted our attention! If we travel throughout Europe, we find, among the various nations which inhabit it, nearly the same external character impressed on them all. In the progress with the lapse of time, we find much more originality in the features, the dress, manners, and customs of the inhabitants, who still bear the stamp of the high antiquity if their race, and their primitive civilization. The East may be said to be at the same time older and younger than Europe: older, for the antiquity of its monuments, of which the poet says: “la masse indesctructible a fatigue le temps,” and which will subsist for ages to come, protected by the nature of the climate, to attest the advanced civilization of those who erected them; younger, for the simplicity of the manners and customs of the present inhabitants, whose ignorance of luxury, limited desires, few wants, and inexpressible apathy, appear to indicate a people in their infancy.
It would be difficult to express the sensations which I experienced, when for the first time, I passed through the streets of Alexandria. It would require the talents of Hogarth to paint all the various scenes of this magic lantern. […]

Society at Alexandria offers but very few resources: yet some pleasure might be found in it, from the considerable number of European inhabitants, and the frequent arrival of travellers, if there were more harmony among the persons of whom it is composed; but so many different interests, joined to all the gossiping of a little country-town, do not render the abode in it very attractive. As I resided in the house of Mr. Drovetti, I did not go much into general society, finding, in the conversation of the amiable and sensible persons who formed our little circle, all the pleasure that might be expected in the most select companies in our capitals.
Perhaps it will be agreeable to my readers, to make them acquainted with some of the most remarkable men who at present act a principal part in the affairs of Egypt. At the head if this historic gallery, I ought to place the portrait of the Pacha Mahomet Ali; but his rare talents and superior genius being sufficiently known and appreciated in Europe, I shall content myself with speaking of some individuals who in order respects merit public attention.
I will begin with the zealous founder of the celebrated collection of Antiquities at Turin. Mr. Drovetti has served with distinction in the French army: he was the friend and companion in arms of General Murat; but some mortifications which he experienced, made him desire to quit this brilliant theatre, and to renounce the profession of arms. He accordingly accepted, being still very young, the office of Consul-general of France in Egypt. His merit acquired him the respect of the different parties which succeeded each other, and gained him the esteem, friendship, and confidence, of Mahomet Ali, to so great a degree, that it would have depended only on himself to have obtained some distinguished post, either in the army or in the administration of the country; but he has constantly refused the offers made him by this prince, preferring, to the dangerous splendour of this favour, the advantage of serving his country, and the liberty of private life, which he has dedicated to study and to scientific researches.
Having resided in Egypt for these twenty-two years, none is better acquainted than he is with every thing relative to its monuments, many if which have been discovered by himself: it is much to be desired, that he would communicate to the learned world the fruits of so many years study and observation; the sciences would be enriched by a multitude of new and accurate views, which would throw great light on the history of the arts which were first cultivated on the fortunate banks of the Nile. It is to his counsel that the country is indebted for several useful projects – among others, the introduction and manufacture of silk, from which great advantages may in future be derived, by obtaining some able workmen from Europe. After the events of 1815, which changed the Government of France, Mr. Drovetti had ceased to fill the post of French Consul; but he was reinstated in his office in 1821.
Mr. Salt, who has published Travels in Abyssinia, and whose skill as a draughtsman is well known, by the fine views in Lord Valentia’s Travels, and those accompanying his own works, has for a number of years filled the office of English Consul. He has had excavations made in various places, which have proved very successful; such as the opening of the pyramid of Cephrenes, and the clearing of the great Sphinx by Belzoni and Caviglia. He has a collection of antiquities, and has already sent many fine specimens to England. To form collections of antiquities is a pursuit which many persons in Egypt have taken up, in imitation of Mr. Drovetti.
Boghos Joussouff, Minister and Secretary of State, and first dragoman of Mahomet Ali, enjoys the highest favour with his master, and general esteem. He is descended from an ancient Armenian family of Smyrna, of the name of Abro. Most of the members of this family have at all times filled important offices, as well in their native city, as at Constantinople. Mr. Boghos commenced his diplomatic career at the age of twenty years, in the character if dragoman of the Sublime Port, in the service of Joussouff Pacha, who commanded the army in Egypt. After the conquest of this country by the French, he returned with the Vizir to Constantinople, where he was recompensed for his services, by the office of dragoman to Ali Pacha, who had, in the meantime, been appointed Pacha of Egypt. He was succeeded by Kourschid Pacha, and the latter by Mahomet Ali. Since this period, Mr. Boghos has held the office of Secretary of State, and Minister of Commerce to the Pacha. He performs the duties of his high station with the greatest zeal and fidelity. He is said to be of a mild disposition, supple, and obliging; so that he seems to have been born for the post he occupies, in which much circumspection is required. He is allowed to possess an extensive knowledge of the branches of administration confided to his care, and speaks with fluency three European, and five Oriental languages.
As he receives a thirtieth on the exportation of merchandise, and enters into commercial speculations for his own account, he is said to possess a very considerable fortune, and to use it in a manner worthy of his character, by relieving the indigent of all nations, particularly Europeans. He is always complaisant towards strangers, and does every thing in his power to make their residence advantageous and agreeable. Though his situation appears to be brilliant, it is, however, not to be envied; for in fact it is only a splendid and continual slavery. Being obliged, by the custom of the East, to remain standing in the presence of his master, from five o’clock in the morning, till late at night, all business, all presentations, and all orders, pass through his hands; in fact, the meanest slave enjoys more liberty than this Minister. Notwithstanding this harassing life, he finds people to envy him, especially among the Turks, who are displeased at seeing a Christian in the distinguished situation which he occupies. Such is the general fate of those whom fortune and favour load with their gifts.
Mr. Anastasi, a native of Greece holds the situation of Swedish Consul, at Alexandria, and has a remarkable collection of antiquities, which is daily augmented by excavations and purchases. He is man of exemplary probity; having some years since had the misfortune of being involved in a bankruptey at Malta, from which he might have extricated himself with advantage, he preferred sacrificing every thing, in order to save his honour, and pay his debts. He came to Egypt to begin the world anew, and has so well succeeded by his perfect integrity, that he now enjoys an ample and solid fortune, and what is still better, general esteem.
Mr. Boghti, Consul General of Sweden, is a native of the Levant; but having been educated at Rome, he acquired in that city, not only useful knowledge, but a considerable share of learning. He is perfect master of his native language, and possesses a choice collection of Arabic authors. It is in consequence of his advice, that the Viceroy has introduced several European institutions, manufactures, cotton spinning, &c. Being born in the Levant, he has many intimate connections with the natives, especially several of the most distinguished Sheiks and Ulemas, of Cairo. It was by his means that my husband was allowed to visit two of the principal mosques at Cairo, in the European dress.”

from Recollections of Egypt
by Baroness von Minutoli, 1827

Notes

¹ A name given to the houses of the Consuls. Its etymology is derived from am Arabic word, synonymous with fort, or fortress: the greater part of these edifices, having been built in the time of war, have but one entrance, so that they can be kept constantly closed during a plague or revolt.